So I've been reading an interesting post here regarding trailer brake performance and it has got my attention because I am heading to Skagway with it's infamous 11% - 11.5 mile down grade heading into town.

I have no choice, I need to get to Skagway, so I want to be as prepared as possible for the hill (look Ma no hands... Look Ma no Redwood!)......

The obvious stuff I've got, limit the water on board, drive slow, engage the engine breaks, but what's got my attention is the discussion on the trailer brakes.

I've always run my F-350 (DRW) break controller at "10 - highest" but never looked or adjusted the trailer disk brakes.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Crawl under the RV and adjust the brakes...This YouTube video is pretty good. A little long winded in the beginning but just scroll over to the important stuff...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL-eLaB0opE

Here is another article:

https://www.etrailer.com/question-40801.html

And a Dexter manual:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc ="s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwje983a4s_OAhVM5SYKHdW6DHYQFgg6MAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dexteraxle.com%2Fi%2Fu%2F6149609%2Ff%2F600-8K_Service_Manual%2FElectric_Brakes.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHXhPtZPguKpuusfDPZjfX_MQpQ7Q&bvm=bv.129759880,d.eWE"

You may also want to inspect your brakes and bearings for that trip. It may prove beneficial. If you replace brakes pads, be sure to properly burnish them in.

Except Ken has Disc Brakes which do not need manual adjustment, just need a inspection to make sure the brake pad linings are not worn or dragging and ensure there are no grease seal leaks.

Lippert told me at the rally that we should adjust the brake controller so that it "feels" like the trailer and truck are slowing at the same rate when brakes are applied. That works out to a gain setting of 7 on my set up but each is different. They said this especially applies to trailers with the TriGlide pin box.

Make sure you leave it in tow mode so it automatically slows it down on steep grades....... Most important is to take it slow and easy on a long and high grade percentage grade. It may take longer but what's more important than arriving alive! I'm sure you know this but just a reminder since a lot of people do not use that feature on their tow vehicle.

Not sure exactly what you need to do depending on discs/electric brakes, but here is what we do when we hit a long steep hill:

Do what the truckers do, slow down to well below the speed limit before descending, keep the Ford in tow/haul and as you start to descend hit the brakes to force a downshift, if you aren't happy with the deceleration, hit the brakes again temporarily to force a downshift to the next lower gear etc. Do some cadence braking (hit the brakes hard to slow the combo down then back off to let the brakes cool) to slow the descent. Don't stay on the brakes continuously as you will cook them (don't ask me how I know!).

I always leave the truck in tow mode when pulling. It changes the shift pattern in the tranny and also helps somewhat in braking as it will downshift quicker. I also use the exhaust brake which really helps in braking. I will leave the cruise control on as it will only increase 4mph over what it is set at and then downshift. I have pulled all through the the Rockies and can only Remeber having to touch the brakes once and that was when a slow semi changed lanes in front of me.the other option is start at the top in the same gear you climbed at. Do this by manually shifting the transmission.

Ken,

On the long, steep hills in the Rockies, I drop my speed at the top to my desired down hill speed - probably about 30 mph. I lock out the gears to either 3 or 4, depending on the grade. At 8 and steeper I use 3rd gear. At 11% I might actually drop down to 2nd gear.

Turn on the exhaust brake and you should only have to use the brakes occassionally.