We may be forced into new wheels and tires for our 2013 Redwood. I saw references in my earlier post to people switching out from G to H tires, even when they have pretty new G tires. I'm a newbie, so please bear with me.... I understand H is more durable and may be larger. If it is a larger diameter, are there additional modifications or things to be aware of? What makes the switch to H so compelling? Maybe I wouldn't be in the pickle I'm in if I had H.....? :ohmy:

I selected the 17.5 inch H-rated Firestone tires (made in the USA), and new wheels for an exceptional rating over the original E-rated tires. After one of the E tires blewout with less than 2,000 miles and with tire pressures at the cold tire pressure spec I decided on the H-rated tires. The extensive damage to our RW from the tire failure and wild ride from 65 MPH was enough for me. I also added a TPMS for additional safety. The Titan disc brakes experienced no damage and helped in controlling the RV while decelerating down in speed.

The 17.5" H Tires and Wheels are within a fraction of the same size as Es and Gs and will fit with no mods needed. The Hs are a commerical grade tire used on many of the "Low Boy" Equipment trailers and I think might be more readily available if needing a replacement while on the road.

I wish I had known Titan Guy before I purchased my 17.5's . . His deals are very good , to the point that it's not worth just buying new "G"'s . .

Since I upgraded , the only time I think of my tires is before leaving for a trip , when I am checking my pressures ..

Goodyear (USA Made) - G Rated - 16" - G614 RST - 3750 Lbs at 110 PSI - 14 Ply
Speed Rating 129/125 L

Goodyear (USA Made) - H Rated - 17.5" - G114 LRH - 4805 lbs at 125 PSI - 16 Ply
Speed Rated 75 MPH (This will lift your height on your rig slightly)

Now...

4 G tires rated on 7000 lb axles - 7500 capacity - 14 Ply
4 H tires rated on 7000 lb axles - 9610 Capacity - 16 Ply

Which do you think will hold up better? Think about heat build up. Think about turning and torque on the tires.

If you have E tires, get them off now. They WILL blow. And that will cost $8000 for repairs and major inconvenience.

Now...

BUY A TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM!
CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURE REGULARLY (every morning and every 500 miles)
CHECK YOUR BEARING TEMPERATURES (every stop or every other stop)
REPACK THE BEARINGS EVERY YEAR (I do it 2 times a year, depending on driving miles)
INVEST IN A GOOD SUSPENSION SYSTEM (several here can make recommendations)

Happy Trails!

Maybe I'm ignorant, but what I don't understand is why we have to repack wheel bearings once or twice a year, but I've never had to do that with any of my cars or truck that travel many more miles with no bearing problems. What am I missing?

Maybe I'm ignorant, but what I don't understand is why we have to repack wheel bearings once or twice a year, but I've never had to do that with any of my cars or truck that travel many more miles with no bearing problems. What am I missing?

Bearings, heat, dirt, and condensation don't really get along too well. If you still have the Chinese Bearings, this is especially very important. If you have replaced with the Timken bearings, you may be able to get away with once a year (depending on miles traveled). I'm assuming you are a worldly traveler 😉 ? Besides, it's just just cheap insurance and a few hours of your time. Better safe than sorry?

You'll probably get a few others here that may do it every couple of years. Just past experience...

It does allow me to:

• Inspect the brakes and adjust (electric - 2.5' pads - just my opinion, but these are junk. Get disc brakes if you can)
• Check for seal leakage (especially the Chinese brands)
• Check for grease on the brake pads
• Check torque on the backplates and wheel lugs
• Check and see if the grease dust caps have popped off (that's happened before)

Here is the Dexter recommendation (12 months or 12,000 miles):

http://www.dexteraxle.com/faq_s

A couple of other "opinions" can be found here:

http://www.rv-life-and-travel.com/wheel-bearings.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/repacking-wheel-bearings-40094.html

Your car bearings are sealed. You don't need to repack them. They will let you know they are bad by making a lot of grinding noises, vibration and or loud noises. You may get 150,000 miles before they need service. It's too bad that in this day and age, RV manufacturers (axle builders) can't use the sealed bearings. IMHO, they need to move into the 21st century :(.

BTW...Here is the Timken Bearing Technical Manual describing lubrication, viscosity, types of grease, intervals for greasing. See pages 96 - 102 (Page 102 in particular)...Timken recommends every 500-1000 hours. What is that supposed to mean anyway? :huh:

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Timken-Metals-Engineering-Manual.pdf

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Timken-Engineering-Manual.pdf

"General guidelines for regreasing depend on the efficiency of
the sealing system and are based on experience. It is general
practice to regrease roll neck bearings at every roll change for
unsealed bearings and at every bearing inspection (about 500 to
1000 hours) for sealed roll neck bearings."

Great summary and recommendations.

Timken Bearings 500-1000 Hours...

I looked at my Ram 3500. I go back and forth to work. 1/2 open highway. 1/2 in town travel. I average 32-35 mph.

It's kinda crude, but if Timken recommends:

500 Hours X 32 MPH = 16,000 miles.
1000 Hours x 32 MPH = 32,000 miles.

I think I'll stick with the 12,000 miles or 1 year. Whichever comes first. Past experience has shown me to hope for the best but expect the worst...

My personal recommendation is to HAND PACK them annually, DO NOT use the Easy Lube zerks they will/can cause more problems whether used correctly or not, if want to use them on your boat trailer do so just not the 16k 5er.

My personal recommendation is to HAND PACK them annually, DO NOT use the Easy Lube zerks they will/can cause more problems whether used correctly or not, if want to use them on your boat trailer do so just not the 16k 5er.

AGREED!

If you use the zirks, you'll most certainly blow the seals and loose your brakes.

Fill the cavity 75%-80% full. NOT 100%! You need room for expansion of the grease as it heats up.

SO much information!! What a great group! Thank you very much, and happy & safe travels to all!