My biggest concern while traveling is tire trouble. I have had blow outs that have caused damage, and bubbles that I have caught before they blew.
On the trip I just finished I saw the pressure rising out of sink with the other tires on my monitor. I stopped at a rest stop and sure enough a big bubble. I changed to my spare and got to my destination with out further incident.
I have had different brands including Goodyear Marathon. ST235/80R16. My current tires were purchased last October. Tires always had fresh dates. I keep proper pressure and am not overloaded.
What can I do, if anything, to minimize this problem?

The best thing you can do is get rid of the ST235/80R16 E tires. They do not have adequate load capacity for the Redwood. The minimum should be 235/85R16 G tires with most Redwoods going to 215/75R17.5 H tires and wheels.

All passenger cars & light trucks come with tires that give you at least 20% reserve load capacity. You are operating at less than 5% reserve capacity so the tire load capacity needs to be increased to get to 20% reserve load capacity.

Agree with Titan Guy. There are also side loads while turning that put additional stresses on the sidewalls.

The H tires have a much higher load factor and better sidewall protection (with the right tires).

This goes back to that inferior engineering thing...

Thanks for the input! I'll upgrade to the 85R16's, don't want to buy new wheels. These units should be sold with tires that can take a load. We don't haul them around empty.
At the very least, dealers should be required to explain these things and offer an up grade at the point of sale. I'm sure most of us find out the hard way. Wish I'd done the research last summer when I blew a tire that took out the bottom of the kitchen slide. That's the side with the most weight and the only side I've had tire trouble.

Thanks for the input! I'll upgrade to the 85R16's, don't want to buy new wheels. These units should be sold with tires that can take a load. We don't haul them around empty.
At the very least, dealers should be required to explain these things and offer an up grade at the point of sale. I'm sure most of us find out the hard way. Wish I'd done the research last summer when I blew a tire that took out the bottom of the kitchen slide. That's the side with the most weight and the only side I've had tire trouble.

Before purchasing "G" tires check the rating on your current rims, as some of the older RW's supplied with Marathons had rims rated to 110 psi, but others were only rated for the Marathons, which run at lower pressure.

Also check out the Classified section, as Jay has a set of tires & rims for sale.

First thing we did was purchase 4 almost new Goodyear G's and rims from a chap down in Seattle, then sold the RW supplied Marathons & rims.

Or the wheels could be stamped inside for 100 psi as were ours. That's less than the 110 psi rating on the G tires. So we went with F rated Carlisle tires which are 95 psi.

Ron/Titan Guy has a deal on H tires & wheels that is close to the same price you'll pay for just lower rated tires, then the tire worries are over.

^^^^^. What Danny said... Do your homework , and then call Ron...

Anybody know anything about these tires?
I also stock a trailer tire Gladiator brand which is load range G 14ply 110 psi. 225-90-16. About the same height as the 235-85-16. Those are $150 each.

I know there are a lot of good no name tires on the market that are a lot cheaper than brand name. The problem with them is will they repair the damage to your unit if the tire is at fault. Goodyear will and to me that is worth the extra money to me

This is one area that it doesn't pay to skimp on...I speak from Goodyear Marathon E range experience! By quality tires. There is no peace of mind going down the Interstate wondering WHEN you will have a tire failure...we suffered four blow outs on tires with less than 3k miles on them.

Bob

Look at the classifieds as you can get some great deals on Goodyear G with the rims!! The tires there come from Redwoods that have upgraded to the "H" tires.

I totally agree with Titan Guy. After significant damage to our RW, from a 16-in E-rated GW Marathon blowout (monitored and less than 2,000 miles), at 65 MPH I switched to Firestone 17.5 inch 16-ply H-rated tires (and new rims) as part of the repair process. I use the TPMS to keep an eye on temperature and pressure however I also check the tires at every stop, even the H-rated tires. A sudden blowout most likely would not be caught in time by a TPMS so is why I went to the H-rated tires. I wanted a much larger margin in respect to the weight on each tire. I really do not want to experience another wild ride anytime soon. As Titan Guy noted the E-rated tires on our RW's are very near maximum load from the start. G-rated tires could also work for you depending upon your load however since the cost difference between G and H rated tires was small I went with the H's.

Throwing a question out there. Has anyone with stock suspension and h tires noticed a rougher ride. I have no problem with mine and the Centerpoint air ride but was curious about others. As we all know when your truck is empty and tires aired to 60lbs dropping them to 45 or 50 makes a world of difference. My thinking is people running lighter gvw on their trailers may end up beating the sh!!t out of them with heavier rubber

we just had our second blowout on the Carlisle's today. tore up the side wall of the rv again and damage to the stairs. Same batch # as the last blowout. and they do not stand behind their tires. that will be another $750 deductible. I inspect the tires every morning before we move. I ensure there is 94 psi in the tires and the lugs are all torqued to 110. We don't drive over 64 mph. I don't know what to do either.