Went to change to the H tires and broke a wheel stud. One month old disc brake upgrade. Any advice on repair?

Rick
Do you have a little more info. How did it happen what does the caliper and rotor look like.You can buy new studs just pull the tire take off the caliper then the the rotor and replace the damaged one.

Rick,
Was it over torqued? I know guys that at every stop retorque their lugs, in my opinion torque them at time of install, drive couple hundred miles, check & retorque & done til you need to remove them. By constantly tightening them you will eventually break a lug or crush the aluminium wheel holes. Some will disagree, but this is the way I was taught & in almost 50 years of towing never lost one yet.

Danny, I'm with you.

I should have the studs in the Norman warehouse. Don't have the spec's with me but they are 9/16".
Pull the caliper off. remove the integrated hub/rotor. knock out the broken studs. insert new stud. get an open end 9/16" lug nut, flat side down so that when you tighten the nut it pulls the stud thru squarely. re assemble.

Danny, I'm with you.

Agreed 100%... anyone who torques them on every trip is asking fro trouble. Do you torque you lug nuts on your everyday driver whenever you leave your house???

Steve

Hey Ron what is your opinion on torqueing lugs every trip?

Do as I say not as I do! I pulled 23,000 miles last year and re-torqued once. If you are going to re-torque every trip. Re-torque at the low end of the scale.
9/16" studs 16" wheels the spec is 120-140. Would Torque at the high end of the scale and re-torque at 120. This way you are not constantly stretching the stud.

9/16" studs 17.5 wheels, the spec is 130-150

Thanks Ron
I'm the same checked them once after 1st installation. Back in the day before these new fangled torque wrenches we would actually tighten the lug nuts as tight as we could turn the lug or star wrench and then never check them again. Have not lost a wheel in 44 years of hauling trailers

Thanks Ron
I'm the same checked them once after 1st installation. Back in the day before these new fangled torque wrenches we would actually tighten the lug nuts as tight as we could turn the lug or star wrench and then never check them again. Have not lost a wheel in 44 years of hauling trailers

I lost one in my younger years with a 1974 F-250. Saw it pass me on the driver side with the axel still attached to it.

Steve

At least the lug nuts were tight. A broken axle can or will cause it to separate from the housing. Not a pretty sight to see the tire take off with that long rod attached to it

I torque them when the wheel gets put back on the trailer, and again at 100 miles , or when I remember sometime during that trip !..

Danny - your are spot on. I do check the wheels for cracks and stuff before heading out.

Yes, Danny is correct. If I remember my Engineering correctly the torque applied is designed to come up to the "plastic" range of the stud, if the stud is re-torqued to spec frequently it will fail. The reason for the re-torque after a hundred miles or so is to ensure that any "settling" of the rim etc. hasn't reduced the torque and loosened off the nuts.