Here are some things that I have made or put together to help winterize our Redwood. Could be used to winterize most any brand. The toilet plunger was a cheap new one from Wally World, I cut it down to size and drilled a hole through it and added fittings to help blow out the P-Traps for the Lav and Kitchen sinks. The regulator helps when blowing out the water lines so you don't use more than say 40 psi to blow lines dry. The ball valve on the inlet to the regulator helps conserve air and air pressure when blowing the lines dry. Just a few things I have put together...Hope this helps someone..

Then you pump RV antifreeze into the lines, dump some in the p traps & pour about quart to the toilet bowl?
The lines may be ok without the af, but would definitely want it in the p traps to keep tank odors from coming in & in the toilet so the seals don't dry out. I also roll up a couple rags to stuff in the kitchen sink drains, as it has no p trap, to prevent odors inside.

We definitely use the pink stuff here in Northern Indiana. Air just helps to get the water out of everything first. With the icemaker, dishwasher and washer combo I pay close attention to winterizing. Never had a problem with the plastic icemaker line but replaced this summer with the braided stainless line, won't have any problems with it now.

As RV antifreeze is ineffective if diluted, removing the water from the traps saves a lot of the pink stuff.

Redwood changed the way they run their ice maker lines now... My current RW has a 1/2" line that runs from the inside out to the fridge, it terminates at the base of the fridge with a shut-off valve. From there it is the 1/4" line..

the 1/2" line reminds me of water hose, it is rubber, Not plastic..

I am not sure if it is any better or worse, but IN MY EYES it's better than the old way... but still not Stainless..

Hi Everyone,

I have a question for you guys. Does your Redwood have a shut off valve or by-pass for the hot water tank ? I do use compressed air to get most of the water out of the lines and follow up with the pink stuff.

Al

Good Morning Al,

YES. ALL RV's SHOULD have a shutoff for the water heater.. If not, you would be filling it up with the pink stuff BEFORE any lines get treated..

My older "16" had a twist valve on the inside of the compartment behind the wall.. my new "20" has the valves directly in the wet bay for easier access

They do, but no guarantee that it's plumbed correctly. The way ours was connected, it was mixing hot water into the cold. And putting it into supposed bypass was still putting water into the heater.

Thanks Joe. I am going to have to do a better job looking for this valve. My trailer is a 2019 model. I saw the by-pass going to the water pump and the winterizing line coming from the wet bay panel.