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Battery replacement

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(@marlindy)
Active Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 6
Topic starter  

The last posts I have seen on this topic were three years old.  I have a 2013 RL 36 I bought new & replaced the house batteries with 2 6v Trojan J305H AC's with 20 hr. 360 ah rates. I had to modify the height of the battery boxes to get them in.  As you know it is a killer to add water, etc., especially with the added height of the boxes.  They are now shot.

We intend to boondock much more in the future.  What batteries are most of you using now?  Especially for boondocking?  

  Thanks,

Marlindy 

R. Lindemuth


   
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(@boatguy)
Active Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 5
 

So much has changed with battery strategy in the last 2 years.   Those particular Trojans are 360 ah but recommend discharge is still only 60% before degradation.   When brand new, and only discharged to 50% the Trojan will outperform most AGM batteries by offering around 1000 cycles before tailing off in performance.   So 360 AH becomes 180useable amp hours.   Each cell weighs 98lbs.   For comparison purposes let’s call the Trojans 200amp hours, at 200 lbs and a lifespan of 3 years assuming a cycle everyday.  I know most people don’t do a cycle every day but it’s good for a measurement.

Buying those types of traditional batteries just doesn’t make sense today.  There are solutions today where the energy density is triple what the traditional batteries offer. The mainstreaming of lithium iron phosphate or LifePo has changed what you can expect for your RV

I will give you three different options.  They are all viable but each offers a different degree of quality, longevity and simplicity. 

Premium Solution 

2 Battleborn 12V 100AH batteries offer 200 useable amp hours and weigh in at 31 lbs each.  They are rated for 3000-5000 cycles to a 100% depth of discharge and that’s why they have a 10+ Year lifespan.   The downside is the cost at 874$ each or 1750$ 

 

Average Solution 

1 SOK 12V 206AH offers 200 useable amp hours and weighs in at 48 lbs. It is rated for 5000-8000 cycles and has a 100% depth of discharge.  Has 7 year warranty and comes in at $1030

 

Budget DIY Solutions

For the adventurous like me, you can build a 310 amp hour battery for roughly 750$ in parts.  Still offering the same 1005 depth of discharge and 5000+ cycles.   There are lots of videos on YouTube to do this.  I have built 3 off these and been very happy with their performance.

 


   
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ROG - Paul
(@rog-paul)
Estimable Member Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 107
 

Here's a session that John Andersen led at the 2021 Virtual Rally on Batteries.


   
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(@marlindy)
Active Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 6
Topic starter  

@boatguy Thanks for the information.  What is the difference between rated ah & useable ah?

Marlindy

R. Lindemuth


   
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(@allenw864)
New Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 0
 

I'm in a similar situation with replacing my old flooded cell batteries.

I recently purchased a SOK 12V 206AH BT/Heated battery for $1200 and a new 90 amp lithium charger to replace the non-lithium charger in my Progressive Dynamics panel https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Progressive-Dynamics/PD4590LICSV.html

Problem is, whenever I try to use the hydraulic for the slides and landing gear, the new (fully charged) battery shuts down (BMS Overcurrent protection), even when plugged into shore power. But every thing works okay when using the lead acid batteries.

After speaking with John @ Lipper tech support he pointed out that there is a 50amp auto-fuse on the positive lead supplying the pump, he says typical is 40amps 'running' but it might pull up to 80amps for a short time during motor startup. (inrush current)

The SOK battery is rated for 'Max Discharge Current:100amps', so this shouldn't be a problem for the battery.
I'm not sure why this is happening but I can think of three possibilities:
1. The pump is pulling more that 100amp and tripping the battery's  BMS, or
2. I'm using more power that I'm not aware of. But nothing is on or running in the camper. I have ordered a  new Battery monitor that can tell the real-time load on the battery
3.The new battery is defective, (I have already started a return)

I just purchased this one today, (although its not heated) but it is rated for '200A continuous discharge current'

https://www.renogy.com/12v-200ah-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-w-bluetooth/

Any advice or suggestions would be helpful.

Allen


   
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(@boatguy)
Active Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 5
 

I would put the problem at the battery.  I have never operated on a single Lifepo for that very reason.  Two batteries combine the over amp discharge available and share the load.  

A battery monitor will help but in this case a clamp meter from Amazon for 50$ will show what’s pulling from the battery instantly.  Without changing any wiring.

 


   
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