Hi all ! Time has come, the Nevercold has disappointed me for the last time. Next week it will be replaced by a Samsung RF 18 refrigerator.

My question to my more electrically learned Redwwodites is one of electrical setup and suggestions. The more I think about it, I'm thinking of putting I. A 2300-2500 watt Pure Sine Inverter to power the whole kitchen slide. The frig draws a max of 10a at startup. The thought I had is that if I tie into the breaker for that slide with a junction box and a 20a double throw switch I should be able to manuall switch from shore power to the inverter. Is this the right way to do it? Or are there better options ?
The battery bank right now is 2- brand new Group 29 Interstate Marine Deep Cycles.

Suggestions are appreciated, I really only want to do this once and only have a 10 day window till we love for Canada and would like to have this done by then. We may add a generator later, but not in the cards right now.

If anyone that is knowledgeable would cars to sketch a quick schematic, I will gladly repay with adult beverages if you will be at the Rally !!

Thanks ! Vaughan

I did it in a class A motor home. Mine was 1200 Norcold Model. If you turn icemaker OFF it will run on 3+ amps. The ice maker has a heater that helps release cubes & draws extra amps. My replacement was 18 Samsung it is about 4" higher. This was the best improvement I made. My Redwood came with Whirlpool.

38 GK 2015 Lee Manne Hendersonville, NC

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Hi all ! Time has come, the Nevercold has disappointed me for the last time. Next week it will be replaced by a Samsung RF 18 refrigerator.

My question to my more electrically learned Redwwodites is one of electrical setup and suggestions. The more I think about it, I'm thinking of putting I. A 2300-2500 watt Pure Sine Inverter to power the whole kitchen slide. The frig draws a max of 10a at startup. The thought I had is that if I tie into the breaker for that slide with a junction box and a 20a double throw switch I should be able to manuall switch from shore power to the inverter. Is this the right way to do it? Or are there better options ?
The battery bank right now is 2- brand new Group 29 Interstate Marine Deep Cycles.

Suggestions are appreciated, I really only want to do this once and only have a 10 day window till we love for Canada and would like to have this done by then. We may add a generator later, but not in the cards right now.

If anyone that is knowledgeable would cars to sketch a quick schematic, I will gladly repay with adult beverages if you will be at the Rally !!

Thanks ! Vaughan

Vaughan,

When we installed the solar panel I got a 1500W pure sine wave inverter. We can run either the RV fridge or a kettle, but not both. If you are looking for the entire slide, I suggest at least 3,000 watt inverter.

Will the Samsung 18 fit into the same space, or do you have to modify the cabinets?

Hi Andy
I've decided just to power the outlets on the kitchen slide. That will also give me power to the entertainment center and the coffee pot should I need it. Will be an easy wire in as all I will need to cut is one feed wire from the panel.

Haven't decided which yet, but will be a 2000 watt either Xantrex or Magnum inverter.

The RF 18 Samsung is about 4" higher than the Norcold and virtually the same width. In my case I lose the drawer under the fridge. Small cost to pay to get rid of the Nevercold. The Samsung with the ice maker turned off only draws about 3 amps

If you get this done by rally time I would love to see it Vaughan. Let me know. See you at the rally! :woohoo:

Jay- hope to have it done in the next 10 days as we are leaving end of June for the Canadian Maritimes and meeting up with Bud and Lois.

I am assuming you want to do this for when you no longer have shore power? It would be easy enough.

I did an autocad drawing of one way to do it but a couple of things to make note of, unless you separate the slide circuits from the main power distribution panel you can back feed into it which is not a good thing. Not only do you need a disconnect switch but you need to put that slide on it's own power dist panel. Personally it would be easier to disconnect shore power and power the entire coach with the inverter and turn off in the breaker panel the things it can't power than to power a single slide but never the less that wasn't the question.
I will post a CAD image tomorrow.

Crossbow, was that english? I'm sure any third grader with an electrical engineering degree that would be perfectly clear, but to this old oilfield guy it was Greek.

Rotfl. Sorry there. Yeah it might have been a bit convoluted as a description but it will be better in a diagram tomorrow. And it only needs a double throw, not a triple. Was thinking of making it like an auto change over but probably safest as a manual

This is shown without a battery disconnect switch just for simplicity. If you have a battery disconnect switch you would have to change it out for a double throw switch to get the power from the converter while on shore power, and from the batteries while on battery power on the DC circuits for the main slide. Like I said it would be easier to put the entire coach on an inverter and turn off the breakers you didn't want to power than to convert the main slide to use an inverter and to safely do it so it doesn't back feed into the main coach power panel. If you want me to put in a battery disconnect switch too I can show that as well.
One thing. Your inverter has to be able to take the back feed from the 120VAC when not on in this arrangement. If it can't, you have to substitute the double pole double throw switch for a tripple pole, double throw switch and run the hot from the inverter through that switch as well and it should also be on the normally open terminals. This way, only when the shore power is disconnected will the hot from the inverter be line up with the slide power panel.

Here is the slide on inverter power with a battery cutoff switch. It isn't simple but it will work to provide the entire main slide with ac and dc power whether on or off shore power safely. I didn't spec the switches but they would have to have sufficient ratings to handle the load on the contacts. You could also do this with relays which could potentially automate the process but I had to stop somewhere. rotfl.