I've got it adjusted as far as I can. I am riding about 2-3" off of the tailgate now. I also have to be careful making tight turns. The pin box can already hit the side rail of the bed if I'm not careful.

These Ram 4x4 Trucks just ride higher. I'm glad I don't have the 18" or 20" tires for sure.

Surely they do make a lift kit of some kind for the RV? I'm looking into it now so that when I change the stock brakes, I can add what I have to at the same time.

You could do what is called "flipping the axles" where you re-mount the spring bundle from the bottom to the top of the trailer axle tube. BUT, you better know what your current height of the trailer is when connected to your truck. My 36RL is 13 feet 4 1/4 inches as currently configured (from factory) and after I added the MorRyde SRE-4000 with heavy duty shackles. I would not take the chance at adding any more height to the trailer. I also have 7 1/2 inches of clearance between the trailer (and still scraped the rails a couple of times) and the truck bed rails and when hitched, the truck squats down 4 inches. I don't understand why you only have 2 to 3 inches of clearance between the trailer and the truck rails. Is your trailer running nose down? How much clearance do you have between the pin box and the trailer underside?

The clearance between the pin box and the trailer on mine is about 2 1/2 inches. I have thought about raising the pin box mounting one set of holes (approx 2 inches) which lowers the trailer front and then raising my 5th wheel hitch one set of holes to compensate. The overall result would yield a clearance of 9 inches between the trailer underside and the truck bed rails. My main concern is that change would only leave about a 1/2 of clearance between the top of the pin box and the underside of the trailer.

I had 5" clearance from truck to trailer and caught the bottom of the trailer with the truck pulling out of a gas station on an angle. You need 7-8" of clearance between the 2. I purchased the Flexair pin box to give me the extra lift.

I've got it adjusted as far as I can. I am riding about 2-3" off of the tailgate now. I also have to be careful making tight turns. The pin box can already hit the side rail of the bed if I'm not careful.

These Ram 4x4 Trucks just ride higher. I'm glad I don't have the 18" or 20" tires for sure.

Surely they do make a lift kit of some kind for the RV? I'm looking into it now so that when I change the stock brakes, I can add what I have to at the same time.

You could do what is called "flipping the axles" where you re-mount the spring bundle from the bottom to the top of the trailer axle tube. BUT, you better know what your current height of the trailer is when connected to your truck. My 36RL is 13 feet 4 1/4 inches as currently configured (from factory) and after I added the MorRyde SRE-4000 with heavy duty shackles. I would not take the chance at adding any more height to the trailer. I also have 7 1/2 inches of clearance between the trailer (and still scraped the rails a couple of times) and the truck bed rails and when hitched, the truck squats down 4 inches. I don't understand why you only have 2 to 3 inches of clearance between the trailer and the truck rails. Is your trailer running nose down? How much clearance do you have between the pin box and the trailer underside?

The clearance between the pin box and the trailer on mine is about 2 1/2 inches. I have thought about raising the pin box mounting one set of holes (approx 2 inches) which lowers the trailer front and then raising my 5th wheel hitch one set of holes to compensate. The overall result would yield a clearance of 9 inches between the trailer underside and the truck bed rails. My main concern is that change would only leave about a 1/2 of clearance between the top of the pin box and the underside of the trailer.

GipCTravelers,

I have to post a correction here to my previous statement above. You may not be able to the change the position of your spring bundle relative to the axle tube. After posting that post earlier this morning, I was checking tire air pressures in preparation for our next trip and noticed that in my case the spring bundles are already mounted on top of the axle tube. So, I suspect that is the way all of the Redwood suspensions are assembled.

I don't know how I managed to forget that since I was working with the suspension so much last summer. I guess I will have to blame it on a short memory........if it happened more than a day ago, I can't trust my memory.

Sorry for the confusion.

Guy

We had 7-8" on the Ford but when we switched to the GMC I only had 5 at the most on my first haul back from RW and almost bumped the rail at a gas station and could not turn real sharp as it would hit my tri-fold cover. I bumped the tailgate when backing in my driveway. (no damage) So I raised the hitch to the highest point and now have 7-8" and no problems so far with the standard old pin box.

Steve

After researching the shocks, and comments here about shocks, I switched gears BACK to the Joy Rider system,, Made a great call to Sonny , only to get further confused as to what to do..
He told me that in about a week there would be a Joy Rider 2 out to choose from, and he recommends that one... It gives you the ability to perform an alignment on your axles, something the RW sometimes needs per him..

Great guy , he said that whichever kit I buy (he reccomended Tweety's) to call him after ordering and he will send the longer lower brackets free of charge...

They may be including the Correct Track system with the shocks. I don't have any knowledge of the CT system, but from what I've seen it doesn't look like it could do much more than get the axles truly parallel, don't see how it could do any thing for castor/camber. But if you only have to wait a week to see what's what why not wait.

When you look at this picture, this would not fit any of the new RVs that come with Correct Track, as that adds several inches above the Equaflex, so I bet version 2 accommodates the correct track if you have it, and if you don't, it throws it in the box so you can add it. The shocks are probably longer, and the lower mounting arms.

There is an article about the Joy Rider II suspension system in the March 2016 Trailer Life Magazine. It describes the installation of the system. It is significantly different than the Joy Rider shock absorber system in that it also adds replacement of the spring bundles and equalizer with a "slipper style leaf springs and roller bearings.

The joy rider 2 will not work with my centerpoint. I have the shock kit coming mon.the trailer rides excellent now and should be better with the shocks to control rebound

x

Looks like you are pin heavy. I would absolutely be installing air bags on the truck to level out. Just looked at my pin and I have the stock Roto-flex and it's mounted at the highest point meaning as close to the RW as it can go upward but with 5 bolts per side and looks like you have 6 per side.
My hitch as I mentioned in the truck is raised as high as it will go.

Steve

I MOVED THE JUNCTION BOX FOR THE TRAILER PLUG INSIDE THE PIN BOX AS IT WOULD HAVE CAUGHT ON THE BEDRAIL. YOUR PICTURE LOOKS LIKE YOU ARE LOW IN THE FRONT. CAN YOU RAISE YOUR HICH UP ANYMORE

x

you can also leave a set of back bolts in and drop the front down 1 hole . if I remember right. this would lift the trailer front off the rails. even lowering the whole pin box would not change pin box to bed configuration and just lift the underside of the trailer up. I would not hesitate using 8 bolts. I would change them fro the grade 4 bolt to a grade 8. my hitch height adjustment only uses 4 grade 8 bolts to hold the head to the base

x