I'm not exactly sure how to ask this question but I will do my best. I understand how the inverter works. Does it just control the fridge or is it wired into other 110/120 devices. i.e. The TV, or the lights.

I understand the batteries will charge when connected to power. I also understand the batteries will charge when the genset is running. I'm guessing the factory installed genset should not be used when underway although I have heard that people do it.

So the question is when we are running down the highway for 6 or 7 hours, Boon docking over night and then back out in the morning for another day before we arrive at our final destination and power are we just running on the batteries since they were last charged? I know on some set ups the centre pin on a 7 pin adapter is used to trickle charge back into the batteries, other times its used for back up lights.

Any advise or education would be appreciated.

Thanks
John

John
Your truck will charge the batteries somewhat while driving. The fridge should be the only thing on the invertor. I would run the generator every evening for a few hours soon the convertor will help charge the batteries. I usually run my gen the last 2hours of travel with the air on in hot weather. That way the trailer is cool when you open it up for the night.the trucks charging system does not top up the batteries as well as the convertor charger does

Shane, you are correct. The fridge is the only thing on the inverter.

Shane,

Is the battery used for the fridge inverter the same as the house batteries or a separate one? I think it maybe separate.

That said, will the truck charge that battery also. The gauge on the 7 pin charge wire is really small and shouldn't be able to pass all that much current to the house batteries never mind an additional battery for the fridge inverter battery.

I don't have the setup just thinking it through......

Ken
Mine came with 2 batteries which the invertor for the fridge runs off

You did not exactly say that you are running a residential refrigerator but based on replies so far, you must be?

The Norcold model runs strictly on batteries (12 V) whether you are running the generator, or on shore power.

That said, if you are running 12V batteries, both will be in parallel. If you are running on 6V golf cart batteries (for larger Amp capacity), they are in series.

No matter the number of batteries (1 or 4), they are connected to a Bussway. So all batteries will be feeding your refrigerator whether on a residential refrigerator or not. Your Inverter should be connected to your electrical panel and a breaker is likely protecting your Inverter. Others can confirm their configurations. I see the potential of some Inverters being connected directly off the batteries and protected by some kind of in line fuse. I would not want that configuration.

On the truck, it is suggested to run a larger #10 wire to the back. That will "help" with your truck charging. Think of it as a larger garden hose...

If you have dual alternators (I have twin 220A chargers), it really helps even more.

Otherwise, stick with Shane's suggestions.

Well not exactly GipC if I understand the setup correctly.

The 12V side does run into a "bus" of sorts, but in order to power a 12V system from 6V batteries, you first need to connect 2x 6V batteries in series (create a 12V circuit) then connect the 12V circuits in parallel to up the reserve capacity. This increases the load capacity because you are spreading it out over multiple sources, but not necessarily the reserve capacity. Load = Amount of current you can draw at any given time without overloading or damaging the source; Reserve Capacity = How long can you draw any given amount of current.

That said that has nothing to do with how the inverter is connected to the 120V side and ultimately power the residential fridge.

I would expect that with the capacity of the factory delivered batteries, and inverter, they have wired the inverter to a separate circuit, even potentially a separate sub-panel, to run only the fridge from the inverter. You can't run a significant amount of the coach on a 1000W inverter. I doubt a 1000W inverter would make me toast and coffee in the morning.

Again, big caveat, I don't have this setup, just thinking what might or might not work.

Shane -

So 2 additional batteries into the inverter to run the fridge plus the single house battery (i.e. total 3)? or; 2 batteries powering both the house 12V side and the inverter to run the fridge?

Wish they would publish the wiring diagrams, would make this so much easier.....

One more thought regarding the the Norcold running only on 12V battery power.

My understanding is that the Norcold has a heating element(s) (actually 2) that is used to expand the ammonia to produce the cooling (another discussion all together). The power to create the heat comes either from the electrical heating element or propane. How you power the heating portion depends on if you have shore power or not.

In the case of having shore power, the power to create the heat comes from the shore power. Similar if you will to the hot water heater running on shore power.

In the case of not having shore power the heat comes from the propane and only the circulation pumps are powered by the 12V system.

I'm still working out the specifics, but I believe the amount of power needed to power the Norcold fridge on A/C (i.e. shore power or via a whole house inverter) is actually more than that needed to power a residential fridge by about the size of the side of a barn! That said, the amount of 12V power to run the Norcold along with propane is far less than the amount of 12V power needed to run a residential fridge via an inverter (again about the size of the side of a barn!). I've done both as I'd like to know how long I have when I run out of propane but still need to keep the fridge running with no shore power and no propane.

Yes this is confusing. I can only hope this clears up your post that the Norcold "only" runs on battery power.

Ken - you are correct on the Norcold operation, with one additional comment - you must have a 12volt source to operate the control board whether on 120v or propane. If your batteries go dead, frig no work.

It came with 2 house batteries only. The 1000w invertor is tied to both and runs the fridge only

Vaughan,

I believe if you have shore power than you have 12V even if the batteries are dead or disconnected because of the built in converter assuming of course that is not in-op or turned off.

I believe that the ammonia/water solution is circulated by gravity and there are no circulation pumps in the system. When operating on propane the only electrical draw is 12 V for the control system and propane valve.

Thanks for the clarification.

Well not exactly GipC if I understand the setup correctly.

The 12V side does run into a "bus" of sorts, but in order to power a 12V system from 6V batteries, you first need to connect 2x 6V batteries in series (create a 12V circuit) then connect the 12V circuits in parallel to up the reserve capacity. This increases the load capacity because you are spreading it out over multiple sources, but not necessarily the reserve capacity. Load = Amount of current you can draw at any given time without overloading or damaging the source; Reserve Capacity = How long can you draw any given amount of current.

That said that has nothing to do with how the inverter is connected to the 120V side and ultimately power the residential fridge.

I would expect that with the capacity of the factory delivered batteries, and inverter, they have wired the inverter to a separate circuit, even potentially a separate sub-panel, to run only the fridge from the inverter. You can't run a significant amount of the coach on a 1000W inverter. I doubt a 1000W inverter would make me toast and coffee in the morning.

Again, big caveat, I don't have this setup, just thinking what might or might not work.

The batteries connect to bussway that feeds the electrical panel and may feed other devices via separate fuses.