This is an easy fix if you are not satisfied with the hot air distribution. We have four outlets from the furnace into the coach. The greatest flow comes from the bedroom floor duct and the room is too hot. There is no damper on the OEM register. The simple fix was to purchase a new 4" x 8" floor register from Lowes for $8 which has damper blades. It takes 5 minutes to change out and by pinching off the bedroom duct more hot air now flows into the living room. 🙂

That's the 1st thing I did when I bought the trailer. In the summer with the air running it seems to help when you close the floor vents. Also when running the furnace you have better heat regulation

That's a good idea. I like being able to close the register vents during the summer. It's on the to-do list now.

Agree, great idea, next time through Lowes or HD will pick up the vents.

Thanks

Terry,

Great idea, however our issue is that in 3 years we have only used the furnace twice and one of those was during the PDI.

Next time we head down to Lynden we should probably check to make sure it still works.

We are sitting in Florida this morning using our Furnace this morning.

Outside Temp is down to 34 degrees here this morning and the heat pump is not keeping up.

Forecast is 80 degrees for Christmas so we may need the A/C again !!!!

I'm glad someone has good luck with the heating system. We did the same thing for all our vents, however did not solve our problem. Thw under belly area is always 15 to 20 degrees hotter than the living area. The interior walls in the bathroom and front entrance area are hot to the touch. Did disconnect one tube and run it to a new vent under the stairs, but the basement still runs hotter. RW stated that is the way it is to work. When opening the underbelly door it's like opening an oven.

x

I'm glad someone has good luck with the heating system. We did the same thing for all our vents, however did not solve our problem. Thw under belly area is always 15 to 20 degrees hotter than the living area. The interior walls in the bathroom and front entrance area are hot to the touch. Did disconnect one tube and run it to a new vent under the stairs, but the basement still runs hotter. RW stated that is the way it is to work. When opening the underbelly door it's like opening an oven.

Sounds like mine, the bedroom furnace duct had came loose & fell over & was keeping the underbelly nice & toasty as well as the bathroom/shower floor. Heated air & duct tape don't hold well hanging up to the floor hoist. I cut 3 pieces of aluminum strap & sealed it & Used self taping screws to reattach it.

Thank yoiu for the info. I understand the air flow to keep the under belly from freezing, but 15 degrees hotter that the living area. The floor in the hall is very warm when furnace is running when you walk on it with bare feet. I figgured a duct has come loose or never hooked up correctly from the factory, however it's the same response from RW, it's your problem. I had the undrbelly open when I replaced the a cut wire for the right tail light. WHile open I found all the cross supports with vertical rods, the majority of the vertical/support rods had broke, whuile the ones not broke were bent. RW did replace all the cross members as well as added an additional 1 inch square tube at the bottom of each cross member. I have gone into the heater area sevceral times while it was running to verify the various air flows and found the plywood box where all the ducts go into allows hot air to flow out of the openings for each duct, taped all opensings, but still have the same problem. I figured one or more ducts have come loose or never hooked up properly. The ducts for the bedroom vents have come of three times, I finally reinstall the duct work and used metal plumbers straping to hold the ducts to the vent. THe under belly area still runs hotter than the living area, only option is to re route all the duct works going to the underbelly and run new ducts to the upper area. The two hours RW allowed for a service facuilty to check it out would not cover the time just to open the area up, let along find any problem.

x

You don't need to remove the underbelly for heating ducts, they are all behind the basement wall except the foam runs to the 2 ducts in the living area, remove about 2 dozen screws. On mine there is 1 - 2" duct going into the underbelly & the basement is heated by the return air to the furnace from an opening next to the steps & under the dresser in the bedroom. The rest of the ducts are a huge bird's nest around the furnace.

x