Folks, I have found 2 GFI locations in my 2012 36FL, one in the kitchen and one in the bathroom. This evening my microwave/convection oven stopped working, I replaced a 20 amp fuze but no electric in the receptacle in the cabinet above the microwave. Both GFIs I mentioned are working, however, there has to be a third GFI. Does anyone have any ideas where the 3D GFI may be??? Would appreciate any info or assistance. My email is coljdm60@gmail.com.

Microwave should be on a separate 20 amp breaker. Not off of a GFCI receptacle. Is your shore power good? Breaker might look ok but might be tripped. Turn the breaker all the way off and then back on.

Chris

Chris, I replaced a 20 amp fuse and reset the breaker and the receptacle still does not work. There has to be another GFI somewhere. Any ideas?

John, Where was the 20 amp fuse located?
There can be several ( up to 5 ) receptacles down stream of the gfci itself. I would press the test button, then press the reset buttons on your gfci receps. BUt again the microwave should be on its own breaker.

Do you have a polarity tester to confirm there is no power at the microwave recep??

Chris

John
Chris is correct,they should not run the micro off a GFI. They are normally on their own breaker. Also all your fuses are 12v only. Possibly a loose connection at the plug or breaker in the converter panel. There is a possibility that there is an internal fuse in the micro. The manufactor should be able to tell you if there is

Confirm voltage (Hot and Neutral) at the receptacle. If power is there, then it could be a blown fuse inside the microwave. Be careful if this is the case as there is still a shock hazard even with the microwave is unplugged. If not a blown fuse, you will likely need to replace the microwave as it is not typically cost effective to repair.

Do you have surge protection on your RV? Campgrounds can be notorious for electrical problems. I am working several at the campground we are currently in. Consider the portable or hard-wired version from Progressive Industries.

Folks, I have replaced a 20 amp fuze, reset the breaker multiple times, ran an extension cord from another kitchen receptacle to the microwave and it works!! I plugged a night light into the receptacle above the microwave and it did not work. All other receptacles work. I have checked the electrical print listed on this website and can only identify 2 GFIs that have the reset mode but have a bunch of receptacles that are GFI dependent. Anyone have any other ideas??

John
As others have said, I'm fairly certain that the microwave is not on a GFCI protected circuit. We had a similar problem with our RL two years ago with the kitchen receptacles and traced it to a splice going into our rear streetside slide out. The electrical cable (romex) needs to change to flexible cord to enter into the slide room. This allows the cable to flex as the slide room travels in and out. I think the FL has a kitchen slide, and I would try and find a splice under the coach where this transition takes place. It should be on its own 15A breaker and have nothing to do with the GFCI circuit(s).

I'd start by pulling that receptical out & check that the wires are seated into it, these are very cheapo recepticals & the wires are just pressed into them. Caution, be sure to turn off the breaker & check that there's no voltage before sticking your hand or tools into it.

Like Danny, It's likely a receptacle problem. Shut the power off to the RV (Don't risk it). Pull the receptacle and look for the loose wire. Knowing how these are put together, the receptacle was likely a "stab-in" type receptacle. They probably didn't waste any time wrapping the wire around the receptacle screw. There are no regulations.

If by accident this is not the issue, you'll have to go back to the panel and see if the screw for the hot or neutral is loose at the breaker.

If you want to check and see which it might be, put you lead of your meter in the hot side of the microwave receptacle and the other lead into the neutral side of a close by receptacle. Then, reverse it for the other side.

This microwave receptacle SHOULD be a dedicated receptacle and not on ANY GFI. It COULD however be feed from another receptacle. It SHOULD NOT be but again, with no industry regulations, who knows. If that is the case, it will make it more difficult as you will have to pull receptacles close by to see if the loose wire is there.

Keep us posted.

I had the same problem with my fireplace electrical connection. The circuit had an open neutral which I traced to the plastic connector between the flexible cable and the romex cable. I have a 36 RL which has 3 conductors going to the slide out. I replaced the plastic connectors in all three lines by soldering the stranded flexible wire to the copper wire then adding a plastic wire connector with electrical tape. Undoubtedly the manufacturer uses the plastic connectors for quick installation of the slide out. These connectors do not make a good connection to the stranded wire since the rubber insulation is thick and eventually oxidation deteriorates the initial poor connection. Many thanks for getting me on the right track to debugging this problem. It saved me a lot of time.