So does everyone use a separate hose for black water flush ? Or what r u using ? We r full timing now just was curious what everyone is using , I have seen some just use there drinking hose , just trying to think ahead before winter gets here if I need to insulate two hoses

I use a separate one dedicated to the flush. Should the back flow preventer in the flush system happened to go bad you could possibly contaminate a drinking water hose if using it for both applications

Our 2013 36RL came with a short hose in the convenience center that connects to a faucet with hot and cold water (originally came with a nozzle). I installed a "Y" hose fitting (with 2 shut offs) to the black tank flush hose connection, One connection goes to the hose mentioned above and the other connects to a short drain hose that goes through the entry hole at the bottom of the convenience center where the water hose also enters.
When I flush (either when connected or using the FW tank) I shut the drain hose on the "Y" and open the "Y" going to the BW flush connection then open the cold water at the faucet. When I'm finished, I first turn off the water at the faucet then open the drain side of the "Y" to allow the water below the below the black flow preventer to drain. This way no contamination can make it to the system.

Hopefully this description makes sense, I can attache a picture if necessary.

On edit, I've attached a picture. The piping guys who install high pressure gas piping call this a "double block and bleed", used extensively when the primary valve leaks a bit.

Our 2013 36RL came with a short hose in the convenience center that connects to a faucet with hot and cold water (originally came with a nozzle). I installed a "Y" hose fitting (with 2 shut offs) to the black tank flush hose connection, One connection goes to the hose mentioned above and the other connects to a short drain hose that goes through the entry hole at the bottom of the convenience center where the water hose also enters.
When I flush (either when connected or using the FW tank) I shut the drain hose on the "Y" and open the "Y" going to the BW flush connection then open the cold water at the faucet. When I'm finished, I first turn off the water at the faucet then open the drain side of the "Y" to allow the water below the below the black flow preventer to drain. This way no contamination can make it to the system.

Hopefully this description makes sense, I can attache a picture if necessary.

On edit, I've attached a picture. The piping guys who install high pressure gas piping call this a "double block and bleed", used extensively when the primary valve leaks a bit.

I see what could be a possible contamination of not only your drinking water hose but also your hot/cold water lines through the outdoor shower. Maybe I'm too cautious, but I wouldn't do this, just my opinion!
I use one of the "brass bullet" hoses from "as seen on tv" as my black tank rinse hose, that's all it's used for, connected to a Y on the park faucet, not much chance of contamination backwards through 50' of hose.

A dedicated hose is the best option. Our hose is black. White for water. Black for black tank. Contamination can occur (without warning) with any backflow / vacuum breaker failure. Store separately. Clean / sanitize often.

Taking it a step further, I also install a short flex hose and shutoff valve at the Utility Bay connection point. By turning the hose on and off at this point, it minimizes the chances that anything can vacuum back into the hose that is connected to the faucet.

Our 2013 36RL came with a short hose in the convenience center that connects to a faucet with hot and cold water (originally came with a nozzle). I installed a "Y" hose fitting (with 2 shut offs) to the black tank flush hose connection, One connection goes to the hose mentioned above and the other connects to a short drain hose that goes through the entry hole at the bottom of the convenience center where the water hose also enters.
When I flush (either when connected or using the FW tank) I shut the drain hose on the "Y" and open the "Y" going to the BW flush connection then open the cold water at the faucet. When I'm finished, I first turn off the water at the faucet then open the drain side of the "Y" to allow the water below the below the black flow preventer to drain. This way no contamination can make it to the system.

Hopefully this description makes sense, I can attache a picture if necessary.

On edit, I've attached a picture. The piping guys who install high pressure gas piping call this a "double block and bleed", used extensively when the primary valve leaks a bit.

I see what could be a possible contamination of not only your drinking water hose but also your hot/cold water lines through the outdoor shower. Maybe I'm too cautious, but I wouldn't do this, just my opinion!
I use one of the "brass bullet" hoses from "as seen on tv" as my black tank rinse hose, that's all it's used for, connected to a Y on the park faucet, not much chance of contamination backwards through 50' of hose.

I'm with Danny on this one...BOTH sources could get contaminated. Your house water is a lot harder to clean after a potential contamination. All it would take is one time...

I use a dedicated hose, which is a different colour to the potable water hoses and is also stored in a different location.

Same here, all black tank hoses and fitting in their own container, and fresh water in another.

Same here. Basically all fresh water connections are stored away from well anything that is not fresh water.

I don't mind mixing grey hoses with the hose I use to back flush the black, but never with fresh water things.

I have a dedicated hose for flushing out the black tank. I don't mix and match with my fresh water hoses.

Bob

I have a dedicated hose for flushing out the black tank. I don't mix and match with my fresh water hoses.

Same

Rick

I've used this for years as a dedicated flush hose. https://www.campingworld.com/grey-water-flushing-hose

Keep in mind, the black tank flush is not provided with a backflow preventer, rather it is a vacuum breaker, meaning it only prevents reverse flow through introduction of air into an unpressurized line. Keeping it pressurized or full of water provides 0 protection. As your blank tank fills, the bacteria is allowed to directly migrate up that hose.