The outlet to the microwave stopped working, changed out the breaker and it's hot at the box, check power at the Anderson clip that ties the circuit into the driver side slide and have no power. Switched out the fireplace circuit with the microwave circuit (both 15amp) and the microwave is working fine. Getting ready to switch out the Anderson clip that transitions the romex wire from the body of the rig to the slide power gird to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't work, my other option is to pull new wire from the breaker box to the where the existing Anderson clips connect to the slide. Is the 120v run in conduit from the slide to be the basement and if not will the construction allow me to make the new pull?

Any other idea you may have will be helpfull....

Have you checked the GFCI? I had the one in the bedroom arced/burnt the load side off the plug, the plug still had power but nothing downstream of it, including the microwave, did not. Just a thought that would be much easier than pulling new wire, which by the way WILL NOT be in conduit & I seriously doubt it's tied up to anything except a giant birds nest of other wiring.

Thanks for the reply, it's my understanding that it's a dedicated circuit so that should eliminate the CGFI, and all my other outlets are working. Today I will cut the power to the entire unit including the 12-volt system and pull the breaker box, I read that debris will work it's way into the breaker box causing problems. This might not solve my 120-volt problem with the microwave but it might resolve the issue I have with the 12-volt circuit that powers my surround sound system (also 12-volts) If you come up with any other ideas, I will take any info I can get.

I would look carefully, as I would be surprised if the sound system is 12V powered. Don't know about the GK, but the microwave is in the kitchen slide and as such the power goes through the Anderson plugs. It's the most likely cause, but there is another junction point where the rubber cord re-enters the slide and I believe comes out behind one of the drawers by the fireplace, where it's wire-nutted back to romex for the final travel to the microwave. Look at both of those carefully, I think you'll find the problem.

I took the stereo back out and it is, in fact, part of the 12-volt system. I did take the cover off the junction box you mentioned but everything looked like it was connected so I closed it back up. Tomorrow I will open it back up and test the connections in the box with a multi-meter. I am also going to get a new Anderson clip on the way. If I don't need it, I think it will be needed in the future.

I appreciate your input and will post the solution(s) once I get it fixed.

I am still battling an issue with one of the 120v circuits that powers the microwave in the driver's side slide. I switched the microwave circuit with the fireplace circuit( both are 15A)at Anderson clip going into the slide the microwave works. I've also done the following:

1. Replaced the breaker
2. Checked power at the breaker- reading 120v
3. Checked all connections to ground and neutral bar for all circuits and also checked main grounding bar behind the breaker box- All good.
4. Remove the Anderson clip from the microwave circuit, stripped the wires and tested it with a multi-meter- No power
5. Checked all the connections in the junction box behind in the lower cabinet wall- all good except the microwave circuit.
6. Checked all the GCFI outlets including the main reset in the bathroom and all have power.
7. Checked or confirmed power to all other outlets in my rig- all good
8. Checked both legs of the 50amp at the pedestal-120v on both
9. Check both legs of the 50amp on the rig side of the surge protector-120v on both

It's been suggested there may be a relay somewhere in the circuit that may need to be replaced or reset, contacted Crossroads but they can't or won't provide me with an electrical Schematic, referring me to a dealer. At this point my only option is to pull new wire it, in fact, this is even possible.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated....

x

This kind of workmanship will kill someone it hasn't already. My ongoing electrical issue caused by the 120v circuit to my microwave shorting out on the frame of the RV. The manufacturer. As you can see in the first three images, both the 120v and 12v wiring is run on the metal framing members of the RV. This resulted in the metal frame rubbing a hole through two of the circuits to my slide power. It shorted out my inverter to the refrigerator, and I lost power to the microwave. During my examination, I was moving the wires around, and they arched off of the frame, but the breaker never tripped, another point of concern.

Don't count on anything the manufacturer tells you about our rig! I was told by the service tech that all the electrical is run in the roof of my Redwood and this is not the truth. On my 38GK the 12v is run down the driver's side, next to the frame and the 120v runs down the passenger side of the frame.

I am not certified in RV repair, and the solution below is based on my thirty years of construction and general maintenance experience and am not suggesting this is the same corrective action the manufacturer would take or recommend anyone reading this post take. To follow are the steps I took in making the repairs.

The final image shows the completed repairs.

1. I split 3/4" flex conduit down one side.
2. Drilled two holes, centered in the conduit opposite of the split and threaded an 8" cable tie through the hole. This is to attach the conduit to the frame.
3. I drilled a hole on each side of the slit on both ends of the conduit and threaded an 8" wire tie through the hole, running it to the inside of the conduit.
4. Spread the split open and place the conduit around the factory wire bundle at the point where it touches the frame.
5. Attached the conduit to the frame using the center wire tie and then sinch down the ties at each end of the conduit around the wire bundle. The center tie keeps the conduit in place and the end ties keep the wire bundle secured in the conduit.

I did the same thing on the 12v side and don't believe I will ever have any issues with this again.

A Crossroad Rep did reach out to me and did offer to cover half the cost of my inverter, the labor and have a standing order for a free inspection the repairs I made to my rig. I refused the offer, feeling it was in a sense "hush money" and did nothing to inform others of what I see as a significant safety issue.

We have had a similar problem. On 50 amp service, our fireplace and microwave went out the same evening. We plugged each into different receptacles with an extension cord. Both worked. I checked the junction box in the slide and even replaced a receptacle. Nothing.
Next step was an RV technician. He tested all the things I did and then went to the Anderson connectors. They were next to the frame near the rear end cap. I had been close, but, had stopped a little short. Here he found success! Both connectors were bad. I cannot nor can he say why both went out at the same time. His recommendation was to eliminate them and use wire nuts and a lot of tape. He feels they are a weak link and could fail again. I agreed and the problem was solved. YMMV and good luck.

Gary

It's possible that wire nut connections of 120VAC without a box enclosing it is a code violation. Maybe the RV industry has exceptions, but I suspect they use those "Anderson Plugs" as a way to not put splices in an enclosed box. I used wire nuts until I could take back to the dealer for warranty replacement.