Has anyone experienced grey tank valve freezing on their Redwood? I've got a 18 GK model and the lavatory/washing machine tank valve seems to be frozen. It's been very cold here with overnight lows reaching near zero. I do use my furnace as the primary heat source and expect that it would warm the underbelly enough to keep the tanks and valves from freezing. I do not have the optional tank heaters. This is my second winter and I've not experienced this before.
If the tank locations are anything like our MB, the Black and Gray are both in the front "Drop Drop Section" and probably bet very little if any heat as I don't recall seeing any duct point that way.
So with the temps you're talking about, I wouldn't be shocked it the did freeze. If it didn't have too much water in it, you might be able to add Hot Water and maybe thew it out.
I am sure at zero the valves would freeze. With out heat tape and tank heaters and skirts around the coach your going to freeze up.
as stated below maybe in the heat of the day putting 5~10 gallons of hot water in the tank and adding salt like we see in the porta johns up here in the northeast during the winter would help.
I am sure at zero the valves would freeze. With out heat tape and tank heaters and skirts around the coach your going to freeze up.
as stated below maybe in the heat of the day putting 5~10 gallons of hot water in the tank and adding salt like we see in the porta johns up here in the northeast during the winter would help.
This is my second Colorado winter in my Redwood and I've never had the tanks themselves freeze up just the valve for the lower grey tank. The black tank and galley tank valves have never froze. The furnace is supposed to heat the underbelly, but as mhs4771 indicated I think this valve is too far away from the heat source to keep from freezing. Once it warms up I'll pull the coroplast down and see what I can do to prevent it. Possibly reroute or install ducting toward the valve.
you could also look at some commercial grade heat tape and rap that round the pipe at the valve. Make sure you get a self regulating heat tape and do cross over each other . It can cause a burn out in the spot that intersect with it self. the commercial stuff last years , the crap that HD sell may not even last a winter if its running 24-7 . Raychem makes a excellent product , all of them should be powered from a GFI and they draw 6~8 watts a foot. a single run down the bottom of the pipe and a spiral run at the valve is all you need. Don't use tie raps to hold it in place long term. for install its fine but glass adhesive tape is what you use and remove the tie raps.
