We have had our unit for over a year. Love it! Never tried the ice maker until a week ago. Turned water on. Nothing comes out! Suggestions?
OK. By stating you turned the water on, are you talking about the 1/4 turn valve located under the kitchen sink? Also make sure that inside your lower exterior refer vent that the ice maker is plugged into the 110v receptacle. 1 recep is for refer. 1 is for the ice maker. That is also why it wont make ice unless you are hooked up to 110 or running on a geny. Ice maker needs 110v for the heater that releases the cubes. Also make sure the bail for the ice cube tray is in the lower position. If it is in the upper position it assumes the tray is full and won't produce more ice. See if any of this helps make ice. And the water needs to displace the air in the water line before it will actually fill the tray.
Chris
Water on. Both plugs in. Bail down. Nothing 🙁
Is your Norcold a 1210 or similar?? I have a manual for ours. Looked up for a manual and found this link:
http://manuals.chudov.com/RV/Norcold-Troubleshooting-Manual.pdf
It is approx 5.2 mb in size. But lots of good info for your refer and icemaker. SHows some diagnostic procedures and pin out diagrams to help with testing with a multi-meter.
Chris
For future reference, this is one of the manuals we have available in the Technical Library
If you feel comfortable using a multimeter and working around exposed electrical wiring I recommend measuring the voltage at the ice maker water solenoid operated valve (SOV) accessed from the refrigerator's exterior removable cover. The water line (maybe a white plastic line) is connected to the valve along with the water line to the ice maker. The plastic fitting, from the interior water source, should drip/leak water when loosened. If the solenoid valve is energized the the ice maker brass/plastic water line fitting should leak or drip water when loosened. When inside the refrigerator exterior compartment do a general check for loose electrical connections. I had several and one required replacing the spade electrical terminal as the wire was crimped on the insulation and not the copper conductor and another had the conductor missing from the spade connector (defective crimp). Hope this is some help. Our ice maker has worked flawlessly for past four years since the repairs.
