We just arrived in FL and found we have no AC power on the left side living/kitchen area. All rightside AC is OK. AC supply outside indicates OK on the surge protector lights on both breakers. All breakers inside are working normally. All DC items OK. I cañnot find any thing else to check. Any suggestions? George *

Did you check if maybe a GFCI plug popped?

You have (2) separate 110V legs in the RV..

The DC has nothing to do with this issue.

Do you have a voltage meter? Check the park pedestal to make sure you have both legs there. That would be the first place to check.

Do you have a power monitor on it? Can you by-pass that?

If you have checked there, come inside and check to make sure that you have both 110V circuits there (in the panel).

It sounds like you have lost one of the 2 legs. You may have a bad cord or receptacle.

Next, turn all breakers off and back on. Sometimes it may appear that a breaker is on when in reality, it is not.

Try these suggestions first.

Did you check if maybe a GFCI plug popped?

A GFCI would/should only affect the bathroom, outdoor, or kitchen circuits. Nothing else. But I can't rule that out. It depends on who wired the RV...

We have checked the power supply outside. It is ok. We have done same to breaker panel. Ok. We swapped the feeds to the two 50 amp breakers. Ok. Checked gfi s. One works properly and the other does not respond to red button TEST nor does it have any power! Looks like it could be the cause? We have isolated the problem to the just the fridge and the ent. c
entre receptacles so I guess for now I will replace the GFI and see what gives. Let you know. Thanks

George
We had the same issue with our 2013 RL, and I think yours is the same configuration. The kitchen slide has 3 total AC branch circuits:
1. Microwave
2. Fireplace
3. Refrigerator (not the residential)
All three of these enter the kitchen slide at the very rear of the coach on the street (driver) side as flexible cables to allow movement when slide is extended/retracted. There are three splices that connect the NM cable (romex) coming from the electrical panel to these flexible cables. I'll attach a pic I took of ours, the failure was traced to what electricians call an Anderson plug. I was still under warranty at the time, so the dealer replaced it.

George
We had the same issue with our 2013 RL, and I think yours is the same configuration. The kitchen slide has 3 total AC branch circuits:
1. Microwave
2. Fireplace
3. Refrigerator (not the residential)
All three of these enter the kitchen slide at the very rear of the coach on the street (driver) side as flexible cables to allow movement when slide is extended/retracted. There are three splices that connect the NM cable (romex) coming from the electrical panel to these flexible cables. I'll attach a pic I took of ours, the failure was traced to what electricians call an Anderson plug. I was still under warranty at the time, so the dealer replaced it.

This would have been the next suggestion.

After this, there can be bad joints at the receptacles or a broken wire where the workers stab the wires into the receptacles.

Its all a matter of deduction. It appears George is headed down the right path.

George,

Good work. Now it may or may not be the actual GFCI plug. Generally in a GFCI protected circuit (i.e. multiple drops) the actual GFCI plug is first in line and your kitchen power drops should all be GFCI protected since they are in a "wet" area and inline.

That said, your test of the GFCI plug tells me that either the plug is bad or it has no power. If the plug is bad and you have a volt meter you can easily test that by checking the back and seeing if it actually has power and perhaps just a loose connection. If it does and the test button doesn't trip the plug, POOF that's your smoking gun.

However, if you confirm the GFCI plug doesn't have power then we have identified the problem is upstream from the plug and you need to look for other issues, some which have already been identified here.

I recently had an issue with my furnace running on propane that turned out to be a bad connection to a 12V fuse in the breaker box. Don't get me wrong, your issue is not with the 12V side that I can figure. But my issue was with a loose connection at the fuse. If your GFCI plug doesn't have power on the back side, you may trace it up stream to a loose connection at the panel. Hard to tell from here but that is where I'd look next.

I know it's frustrating for this to take so long to figure out. I hope you are finding work arounds for your current challenges.

This one is a long shot, but I'll share an experience with our GFCI not being able to test or reset in the bathroom of our 36RL. The problem was water intrusion into a plug in the basement downstream of the GFCI, caused by a small leak in the plumbing in the bathroom running down and into the plug below.

It may be something you may want to check.

That could also make sense. Seems your GFCI plug was doing exactly what it was designed to :).

My GFCI had a loose wire on the line side that had arced til it no longer made a connection. The plugs in these rvs are the cheapest you could find anywhere with the press in connections, but most cases the walls aren't thick enough to add better boxes for better plugs.

Jim this looks like where I am going cause everything else checks out ok including gfi and recepticles

Jim, how were they able to determine that this was the problem? Is the Anderson plug readily available? I am in a fixed park situation so all work has to be done on site in situ. I have located the position where I think it is located as you described with three wires leading up into a taped up area above the weather sealing material. Thanks George

George
I did the troubleshooting in an RV park in Las Vegas. The Anderson plug fell apart in my hands when I found it. I temporarily used electrical wire nuts to connect it back together, as I was having to plug the RV fridge in to an extension cord out the bottom outside fridge cover panel. I left it like that all winter as we were parked at our winter home in Mesa, and then had our dealer repair it after we got home in the spring.

Just to let you know, the wire nut fix is not legal code wise, as they are required to be used in an approved junction box, but it was all I could do at the time. My suggestion would be to contact Tiara RV parts in Elkhart IN., once you find out if it is in fact the problem.