The right turn signal on our 34SK is not working. I have determined that the bulb assembly (tail and stop/turn) is OK by testing the ohms with my multi-meter. When checking the ohms across the ground wire and and supply wires to the stop/turn signal and tail light, the tail light is good but there is a break somewhere in the stop/turn line (brown wire).

Has anyone dealt with this problem successfully via DIY? How did you chase down the break? Where did you find the problem?

Did you learn where the 12 volt wires to these lights were routed? On mine, it seems as though they may be headed up the curb side of the rear cap towards the running lights at the top of the cap.

I have about 11 days to get this fixed as we depart from Key West on April 19th.

TIA for any help.

The tail lights are spliced behind the light assemblies with wire nuts, probably loose nut or its full of moisture. The hardest part is removing the lights, some of the techs that assembled them must have gotten paid by the tube when caulking them in. If you're pulling them out anyway, upgrade to the led fixture, what a difference, I replaced all 4 with stop/tail lights, didn't need backup lights.

The main harness on mine runs down the street side I believe, and comes up from the frame into the rear cap.

The tail lights are spliced behind the light assemblies with wire nuts, probably loose nut or its full of moisture. The hardest part is removing the lights, some of the techs that assembled them must have gotten paid by the tube when caulking them in. If you're pulling them out anyway, upgrade to the led fixture, what a difference, I replaced all 4 with stop/tail lights, didn't need backup lights.

Thanks for contributing.

The connectors on mine are crimped on rather than nuts (they do look a little like nuts, however). They also seem dry. The wires from the supply line and to the bulb fixture clip appear to have been well twisted together before the connector was crimped on.

I may upgrade someday but right now just need to get this one working.

Thanks, again.

Glen, They call them 'Bell caps'. Have you already checked the connections in the junction box near your pin box?? That is where they connect the wires to the 7 way Bargman cord. We had a pinched brown wire for our brake lights/ turn signal in the underbelly. It was pinched between the I-Beam of the frame and one of the frame cross member zig zag bars. It had slid down and pinched the wire, constantly blowing fuses in the truck. Ours was located along the street side, or off door side of the coach underbelly, above one of the axles. I removed the self tapper screws and washers from the underbelly and felt around until I found and fixed the wire.

Chris

Have you checked your truck/trailer connection? I had a turn signal that wouldn't work and it turned out to be a loose contact.

Bob

We thought we had a Stop/Turn Signal problem and then realized it was a blown fuse in the TV.

Thanks to all for your input, and my apologies for the long delay in feedback.

It turned out to be a loose wire in the junction box behind the king pin box. The red wires for the left signal were loose in the wire nut. After discovering that we redid all those connections and in the process discovered that several had the wires twisted together to the left and the the wire nut twisted on to the right. This is a bad procedure and must have been done at the factory by an unskilled worker (both should have been to the right).

Some of the screws holding the fixtures in place on the end cap were loose in the fiberglass. I glued some small, thin pieces of wood in place behind the screw holes to improve the holding power of these screws.

Thanks again for the help.

Glen, glad you were able to figure out the issue. Goes to show the importance of having folks trained correctly on how to do their jobs. Many frustrations that us owners experience could be prevented, if the work on our rigs was completed right the first time around. Now everyone will know you are on the "right" trail! 😉

Had the same problem, found the brown wire was cut about half way between the box on the hitch and tail light. The wire had been placed in between two metal pieces and the two rubbed together and cut the wire, which would blow the fuse each time brake was applied. When fixing the cut wire I found that the majority of the vertical rods in the cross member supports were broken and or bent. Basically the 5th wheel did not have any cross support. Had to take the unit to Factory for replacement of all the cross supports, however Lippert and Redwood said is was my problem. However after getting to the factory and having the unit looked at, both decided to replace all the cross members. I'm wondering how many other Rewdwood 5th wheels with Lippert products have the same problem? As you can see from the photos the vertical rods had been broken long enough to rust.

This is on a 2013 36RL. We continue to have issue with this unit and regret having purchased a Redwood.

Had the same problem, found the brown wire was cut about half way between the box on the hitch and tail light. The wire had been placed in between two metal pieces and the two rubbed together and cut the wire, which would blow the fuse each time brake was applied. When fixing the cut wire I found that the majority of the vertical rods in the cross member supports were broken and or bent. Basically the 5th wheel did not have any cross support. Had to take the unit to Factory for replacement of all the cross supports, however Lippert and Redwood said is was my problem. However after getting to the factory and having the unit looked at, both decided to replace all the cross members. I'm wondering how many other Rewdwood 5th wheels with Lippert products have the same problem? As you can see from the photos the vertical rods had been broken long enough to rust.

This is on a 2013 36RL. We continue to have issue with this unit and regret having purchased a Redwood.

The pictures you show clearly show stress as the cause. They are stretched and snapped in two. Now, where did the stress come from? A violent road beating? Overloading? OR a factory engineering design issue (Undersized for the load)? Was this the only string like this or are there others? Where is it located in relation to the axles? A lot of unanswered questions for sure. A metallurgist and stress engineer could get to the bottom of this. Did you experience any body damage from it? How about floor damage?