I have 2 group 31 batteries, and want to know what is better for winter storage?

#1 - I have the coach unplugged, the battery bypass OFF, and a battery tender on them...

--- OR ---

#2 - keep battery bypass ON, and keep coach plugged in ?? Allow the inverter/charger handle them..

Right now, I am doing #1, Is there any advantage either way??

My experience is to keep a trickle charge on batteries when they are not being used for an extended period of time. All batteries have a self discharge rate and no battery likes to sit flat for long periods of time.

Also batteries tend not to like long periods of cold so if you can avoid storing them at or below freezing they will last longer and work better come the spring thaw.

So, if you can remove them and place them in a well ventilated area like a garage to keep them at least above freezing and throw a trickle charger on them I think you will be ok through the winter.

Something like this storage charger is all you really need. Nothing fancy and really not very expensive.

Hope this helps.

I pretty much ignore all the rules.

I remove the cables and let them sit for 8 months in Colorado weather. Between boat and RV, I've never had an RV battery go flat, never had to charge it to function in the spring, and most of the time they give me over 5 years of service. I quit babying them decades ago because it was way too much work.

I tend to agree with Brad.

I disconnect my wife's car battery over the winter period for 5 months and leave the car in an unheated garage over a Canadian winter, ensuring that the battery is fully charged before the car is stored. The first battery in that vehicle lasted 11 years, with 5 years of winter storage as indicated. In the spring I reconnect the battery and the starter turns over at about the same speed as before and any charging gets done on the first trips with the car.

I treat the RW in a similar manner, any time I'm plugged in for more than a couple of days I disconnect the batts (and I rewired at the circuit breaker block so I get a full disconnect), this practice results from losing 2 batts in a previous RV at 2 years in service, I suspect that the boost charging done by the converter did those batts in. The charge from the truck between campgrounds keeps then topped up without any water boil off.

I tend to agree with Brad.

I disconnect my wife's car battery over the winter period for 5 months and leave the car in an unheated garage over a Canadian winter, ensuring that the battery is fully charged before the car is stored. The first battery in that vehicle lasted 11 years, with 5 years of winter storage as indicated. In the spring I reconnect the battery and the starter turns over at about the same speed as before and any charging gets done on the first trips with the car.

I treat the RW in a similar manner, any time I'm plugged in for more than a couple of days I disconnect the batts (and I rewired at the circuit breaker block so I get a full disconnect), this practice results from losing 2 batts in a previous RV at 2 years in service, I suspect that the boost charging done by the converter did those batts in. The charge from the truck between campgrounds keeps then topped up without any water boil off.

X2!

If this helps...

I kept my batteries on charge this winter with the battery disconnect in the "off" position. I still have the original configuration where the alarms suck power from the batteries in this position. Over the winter (even as mild as it has been here in Texas), my batteries were not staying charged. They drifted very low. I could not get the slides to open on one particular visit. I will admit that I may have a charger problem. After connecting to a normal car charger, the batteries were recharged in about 8 hours....

I'm with the group and will likely disconnect the batteries totally next year.

I think this very interesting. My primary concern about my battery health is how much I depend on the 12V (house) side) of my batteries. Possibly more than most as we don't to jump from hook up to hookup.

I would think that if I only needed a few hours of disconnect I would agree, a battery at something like half capacity after a few harsh winters would be fine. I can't really say, only I know that no battery likes to be cold and in a discharged state.

For 35 years and four RV'S I disconnect the batteries after a full charge (and filled if not sealed). Some winters have been easy and others harsh however my batteries have never failed. The batteries stay with the RV through the winter and are ready to go in the spring.

Thanks to all...

With never having an RV with this type of inverter/charger I was not sure I was doing the right thing... Way back when I started camping , my father in law showed me the ropes , and some of those ropes were older back then 😉 .. ..

I think this very interesting. My primary concern about my battery health is how much I depend on the 12V (house) side) of my batteries. Possibly more than most as we don't to jump from hook up to hookup.

I would think that if I only needed a few hours of disconnect I would agree, a battery at something like half capacity after a few harsh winters would be fine. I can't really say, only I know that no battery likes to be cold and in a discharged state.

Ken, cold can destroy a discharged battery, but just disconnecting and leaving in storage does not constitute discharge. There is no reason to believe that the winter cold impacts the battery at all if it is left as is with no draw.

I discussed with Interstate on expected life of my 6V back in the day, and they said it is directly related to number of charge and discharge cycles, not years of service. For that reason - I get to pause or extend battery life by just leaving them alone for 8 months a year.

Still not sure. This Interstate Battery article talks about how cold effects a batteries power. Interstate battery winterizing

Another person chimes in on the cold battery issue: How To Store Your Batteries

I like the reference in this article to storing the battery directly on concrete. This again goes to the self discharge issue that can leave a battery flat and out in the cold.

One final reference is to my point regarding "self discharge". This is the process where batteries will loose some energy over time just because they do. Call it a fantom load even if nothing is drawing power, the battery will just loose power. So anyway, they tell the story better than I can. RV Care - Winter Battery Storage.

With all that said, another option truly is to just go down to your local Interstate Battery or Costco or other buyers club when you think your battery is falling short of its potential and buy new. Perhaps the cost of a new battery is less than the hassle of the extra TLC needed to keep it up during the winter. That again is a personal thing....

Since my idea of winterizing is to "drive south" I am not really a reliable source, but I do now and again run into situations that this is important to me, so I like to know.

I think this very interesting. My primary concern about my battery health is how much I depend on the 12V (house) side) of my batteries. Possibly more than most as we don't to jump from hook up to hookup.

I would think that if I only needed a few hours of disconnect I would agree, a battery at something like half capacity after a few harsh winters would be fine. I can't really say, only I know that no battery likes to be cold and in a discharged state.

Ken, cold can destroy a discharged battery, but just disconnecting and leaving in storage does not constitute discharge. There is no reason to believe that the winter cold impacts the battery at all if it is left as is with no draw.

I discussed with Interstate on expected life of my 6V back in the day, and they said it is directly related to number of charge and discharge cycles, not years of service. For that reason - I get to pause or extend battery life by just leaving them alone for 8 months a year.

In my line of work, I've had to deal with a lot of batteries...

One thing is for sure. Golf Cart (6V Batteries) are a different breed that normal car batteries (12V) and forklift batteries. Normally, you don't ever want to run a golf cart battery down past 80%. 50% would do less damage over time. 30% would even be better. They need to be on a constant charge if possible.

Now, if you are using these types of batteries in your RV, there is a bit of a challenge...You bought these batteries because they have more "amps". You want to be able to run everything in your RV off-grid for your own reasons. However, most don't stop to think about how this deep discharge can ruin these batteries.

Here are a couple of articles about the differences:

http://www.golf-carts-etc.com/charging-deep-cycle-batteries.html

http://forklift-battery-charger.com/forklift-charging.php

Golf cart batteries should be kept on a charger after every use. They are not "cycle" dependent. They do require an equalizing charge on occasion. In the case of an RV, hitting the "boost" charge button about once a month will help extend the life of that particular battery.

Regardless of 6V or 12V, these batteries will "sulfate". The plates clog up over time. That's why it's important to hit the "boost" charge cycle every once in a while. It helps knock some of the sulfate off of the plates while at the higher charge.

Another trick I've heard about...Take the battery and lift it off of the ground about 1 to 2" and drop it back to the ground once or twice. This is also supposed to knock some of the sulfate off. HOWEVER, I have never personally tried this as I think there is a bigger danger there. If the plates are warped (and they do this over time) and you drop the battery, it could cause the plates to touch and short out. There is also the danger of splashing the liquid back up into your face. I brought this up because some of you may have heard about doing this...

Forklift Batteries ARE batteries that are "cycle" rated. They are designed differently. Those batteries are designed to run down to a full 80% before they are recharged. Every time they are plugged in, that is considered a "cycle". We've had forklift batteries last for 8 to 10 years with proper treatment. Usually a forklift battery is rated at about 1500 cycles.

So, if you are using 6V batteries (Golf Cart) or car battery (12V), then keep them on charge as often as you can. But give it a "boost" charge at least once per month.

Hey - you guys knock yourself out! Baby those batteries! 😛 While you are spending valuable time coddling them, you might start your generator and check the wheel bearings at the same time, just like all the internet articles recommend 🙂

You can listen to Atom Ant and use the "Run to Fail" method (expensive), or here is yet another short article on the exact same subject of batteries....

I prefer the latter...It's less expensive:

http://rvtravel.com/?q=node/2257

About 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the page, you'll find a supporting clip from RV Tech Tips by Mark Polk.