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Search result for: Basement hinge
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Basement Slides | 8 Relevance | 7 years ago | Anonymous | Owner Modifications | |
| for those that like the outside fridge/freezer, we had a Moryde AP56-132 freezer tray that is designed for the feezer/fridge to come out end to end (handle side) and it just fit in our 36RL Basement without interfering with the straight through portion (we left that open thinking of a another full size tray accessible from either side like Vaughans) The Moryde tray extends 200% so the lid on a Dometic CF-50 can fully open without hitting the cabinet door in the open position over it. | |||||
| Basement Slides | 8 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Owner Modifications | |
| I finally had a few days at home, and felt confident enough to install the slides. I purchased these before the fifth wheel, and had only guessed at how I would use them. The platform that slides out is 43" x 43" and it fits great. All in I did this entire project for under $200 CDN or right around $140 US. It saves my back and helps me stay a little more organized. We also think that with the Basement TV we will use the slide out as a table for snacks and drinks when are set up outside. | |||||
| Basement Slides | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | Owner Modifications | |
| Thanks for the input. I have not got this figured out. In fact as I said I'm not even sure what the Basement looks like. I just jumped on them because the price was right and I am not looking forward to crawling in and out all the time. | |||||
| Basement Slides | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Anonymous | Owner Modifications | |
| You probably have this all figured out, but I looked at a fellow RW owner who had installed a slide in the curbside Basement. He had to put spacers in between the slider and the floor so that the slide would not foul the bottom of the door frame when it was pulled out. | |||||
| water leak in basement | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| We had water in our Basement and couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Took it to the dealership twice under warranty and they couldn't find the problem either. As it was sitting for us to go over the warranty repairs, it rained... and on the side we suspected the leak was coming from. They checked out the door gasket... Nope. It wasn't until we went to the Redwood Service Center that the problem was solved. The gasket under the door strike plates is where the leaks were coming in. They replaced those and straightened out the hinges and we have ... | |||||
| water leak in basement | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Anonymous | General Exterior | |
| When it rains I get water on the floor of the Basement.I tried spraying water on the doors with a hose--no leaks. I checked the roof with no apparent problems any thoughts? | |||||
| Basement storage | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| Few more photos from street side of Basement. | |||||
| Basement storage | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| The tray weighs about 70 lbs, can hold 600 lbs and move in and out with one hand. Really makes the whole Basement much more accessible | |||||
| Fix for leak in basement and toolbox | 8 Relevance | 9 years ago | Anonymous | General Exterior | |
| Mine has been leaking on both sides of the Basement. I noticed it when I had it in for inspection and the service manager thought the light coat of sealant around baggage doors might need to be re-caulked. I'll try that when the temp gets a little higher in a few weeks. | |||||
| RE: Front Slideout Room 12 v Wiring Harness Flex Guard Repair | 7 Relevance | 4 years ago | Rob_Fla | Slideouts, Toppers and Awnings | |
| Both of my Flex guards under our Front Living slides were broken and the wiring was dragging on the floor when opening and closing the slide. I removed the front panels on our slides with our much problem. The slide floor front panels on our Redwood are carpeted separately from the slide floors, just have to poke around and and find the fastener heads that hold the front panel on, remove the fasteners and remove the front panel. Since both were broken due to being installed incorrectly at the factory during our Redwood build (they were mounted too far forward and getting crushed by the front nose frame beam) I moved them back to the area behind the front nose beam, cut them even lengths, then installed a 3 inch hardware store hinge on them. They have been working perfect for 6 years now. | |||||
| Stupid move on my part | 7 Relevance | 6 years ago | Jim | Things in general | |
| Ok, I will confess my Boo-Boo. I was putting things in the tool box compartment on the drivers side under the bedroom slide out. Just put the door on my head since I wasn't going to be on there long. My wife was putting in all slides so we could take off. The door being on my head was high enough that the slide caught it and started to draw it in under the slide. I let my wife know quite loudly to STOP THE SLIDE OUT. Damage to hinge and door but I could do the repairs myself. LESSON LEARNED: USE THE ATTACHED hingeD LATCH INSTEAD OF MY HEAD TO HOLD THE DOOR OPEN!! Had I used the latch, the slide would have cleared the door. As I said lesson learned | |||||
| Damaged Rear Ladder, need replacement | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| 11/10/17: I called Tiara this morning to see if I could get the information on my particular ladder. Who knows...I might need one in the near future myself...There is a small sticker under one of the steps that will tell you the part number (I think that is what it is), the date of manufacturing, and the weight rating. Mine was about the 3rd step up. I had to bend over to see it. With that in mind, you and I are going to have to wait for a while if we want a replacement. The one piece black ladder is apparently manufactured by Christianson Industries. This was received by alternate resources. Tiara won't give you ANY information about who made the ladder or why they can't get access to any. They will tell you that ladders are ONLY being made available to production and warranty claims at this time. Check back next year. But after during some research, I think I now see why: It seems that Christianson Industries may only be a small company trying to dig out of a deep well. Per MANTA ( Christianson Industries Inc 27328 May St Edwardsburg, MI 49112 Phone: (269) 663-8502 Web: Christianson.com Christianson Industries Inc is a privately held company in Edwardsburg, MI and is a Single Location business. Categorized under Aluminum Sheet, Plate, and Foil. Our records show it was established in 1981 and incorporated in MI. Current estimates show this company has an annual revenue of 8,856,492 and employs a staff of approximately 20. So, after a web search, there were only 3 other Public manufacturers (not using private or hidden names like Christianson) that I could find: SURCO STROMBERG-CARLSON TOP-LINE I did find one other but at $380, I didn't think that would interest you. The problem is that the public manufacturers seem to be making "Universal" style ladders (with 1 exception at Top-Line). In other words, they have a hinged ladder. I can't use that particular kind of ladder due to the location of the window and where the hinge would bend. At least, I don't want that to be a risk factor. You might be able to make it work, but I don't want to HAVE to "work" with it. I am assuming you would not either. In any case, here are the alternates that are hinged (even though they say Universal): SURCO INC: STROMBERG-CARLSON: Black (LA-401 BA) - $109.95 Direct from Factory Spec Sheet: 2323 Traversefield Drive, PO Box 266, Traverse City, MI 49685 Phone 231-947-8600 Fax 231-947-7006 Email: info@strombergcarlson.com Ordering Page: PPL (Texas) has this one advertised. I'd at least call for price comparison if you go this route. Make sure you have the correct top mount. There are apparently a couple of varieties out there. TOP-LINE (502L is a straight rack but it may not reach in far enough): Best of luck! | |||||
| Electric Breaks | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Chassis, Frame, Autolevel and Running Gear | |
| Gipc I have had mine apart to fix the washer drain. There is more room for storage under there if you remove the 1/4" ply wood and installed 1/2" on a hinge and struts. I have not done this yet as it will just add more weight to that side and am already 750 lbs heavier than the door side | |||||
| Entry door makes annoying creaking sounds | 7 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| If you have lubricated with any quality lube, it sounds like your door frame or door or both are not properly aligned causing your hinges to be in a bind. It could be that a good wind gust snapped the door open on the previous owner? About the best you can do is to use a penetrant spray a few times. You could consider grinding off the welds and re-tacking the existing hinges but that's going to be a lot of work. I don't remember if you can pull the hinge pins or not. I'm not at the RV at the moment. If you can, then you might pull the pins, clean them with a steel wool, and then lube the hinges before re-installing the pins. If that absolutely will not resolve the issue, you may want to replace the door and or frame. RV's are just a lot of work... | |||||
| Icemaker Line - Again | 7 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | Appliances | |
| Sorry for bringing up the subject again but thought this might be of help to someone - 38RL. Had another water leak in the line, this time behind the Whirlpool refrigerator. Decided to replace the entire line. For anyone thinking about the same thing, here are the simple steps I did: 1. It takes about 30 feet of line to run from the back of the fridge, through the floor, along the slide, through the underbelly, and up to the island connection. I used a 10 ft and 20 ft braided line from Lowe's. 2. With a helper, carefully slide the refrigerator forward about 12 inches, protecting the bottom slide trim where the refrigerator will rest. Then take the left refrigerator door off including disconnecting the water and electrical connection in the top hinge. Water disconnects by pushing on the colored washer while pulling the door-side water line out of the quick-connection. Take the freezer door off with four screws that attach to the bracket. 3. Carefully slide the refrigerator farther toward the island where it can tilt. The existing water line on the fridge has about 4 ft coming out of the fridge where I could disconnect the RV water line without taking the fridge all the way out and having to get behind the fridge. 4. I drilled a new hole from the bottom of the slide through the floor as close as I could reasonably get to the cabinet wall and slide wall. The new line is larger and wouldn't fit through the old holes. 5. Fed the line through the bottom and attached to the fridge line. 6. Covered the outside line with split foam pipe insulation and thread it through the underbelly and up to the sink. Connected at the sink. Turned on the water at the sink and checked for leaks. Put everything back together. 7. Sealed up the old and new holes in the bottom of the slide with silicone. Now maybe my icemaker line problems are over! | |||||
