Bedroom slide failure.
Hi, I’m am new to this site, own a Redwood 36 RL, bought new from dealer in 2014. We have spent 10 nights or less in this unit since we purchased it, reasons irrelevant to the issue. I noticed last week getting Our rv ready to go again that the bottom of the bedroom slide is sagging, (failing) we have a washer but has not been used, ever!
We had a rain the following day and the slide was out, upon inspection the following day, there was small amount of water in floor, same thing this week after a rain, slide was in, I inspected all seals, along with the awning, all caulking looks good, which has me puzzled, I checked the roof, around windows, etc.... when I bring the slide in the rollers underneath are pressing agains the bottom of slide, and forcing water out, to the inside of our rig.
Has anyone experienced anything close to this situation?

I am a cabinetmaker, and we can fix this in our shop, however I don’t know where the water has entered

Any helpful information would be appreciated

Thanks in advance

First off, welcome to the forum. We ask a lot of questions and we often get a lot of answers so hopefully someone can offer a perspective on your situation.

To start, the 1st picture looks as though the damage stretches from one side to the other. Is this correct? If so, that would seem to indicate a substantial leak.

It also seems that you have checked a lot of the obvious.

But, here are a couple of other ideas to consider:

1) Where were you storing the RV? Under covered storage or open space? If covered, that could start a lead toward a plumbing leak of some kind. If outdoor, there could be several locations.

2) If outdoor, check the window weep holes. If they get clogged up, that can trap water and it can run inside. But that's a lot of damage.

3) Have you checked the seam at where the roof comes down the side and is covered with the gutter track?

4) Have you checked the cabinets inside the RV to see if there is any evidence of water damage? That might help determine if the leak is high or low?

5) Do you or have you ever left the water pump on while in storage? That could indicate a plumbing leak.

6) Is that washer or refrigerator on the same side as the leak?

7) Check the windows and make sure that the Buytl tape was actually applied. A bead of sealant should probably be over the top of the window and down the sides as a backup. (I said should).

8) Have you noticed the damage as an on-going situation or did it just show up overnight (suddenly)? How long was it before you actually discovered the problem?

9) If your slides are not properly set up, the outside could be leaning back into the RV. When water accumulates, instead of rolling toward the outside away from the RV, it will lean back in towards the RV. With the slide out or in, the water would run back inside. It will get under the seal; run down the sides, and settle in/on the floor. Take a level and confirm that the slide leans outward.

10) Pull your bed away from the wall and see if there is any evidence of wall damage (high or low). Again, that might indicate a leak up high or down lower. Is the bulk of the damage toward the washer or just equal all over?

My immediate best guess based on your first indications are that the slide is leaning in.

On your 2014, I am assuming that you have this floor plan:

With the info above, may be we can get some more suggestions...

Sorry to hear about your situation 🙁

Thank you for the warm welcome and taking the time to respond, certainly a lot of helpful information. My play of Attack to find the leak of course and then find a detailed plan on approaching the fix myself.

The rv was stored outside, no water attached as we are in Canada, and have to winterize the trailer every October before freezing begins.

I noticed the outside bottom left corner had a crack in the rv last year when we used the trailer one weekend, and figured some water entered by the corner, caused swelling in the plywood but never noticed anything too much outside of that after inspection. Returning home, piut slides out and never used after that, October came and winterized the unit, and that’s when the slide was difficult to come in or out, however came in. Left it for the winter, and when I went to bring slide out in spring again had trouble, thought it may require silicone on the seals, and that certainly helped. Inspected all the gear components and noticed the outside flange was sagging, which is when I noticed the bottom of slide was sagging, all along the whole bottom, but weight of washer was the worst location. Inspection there showed no water leak from washer, plus other then antifreeze it was never used, valves closed. I then noticed water on the floor where the slide comes in and out, the rollers are squeezing it from the saturated plywood. Looked in all cabinets, removed the bed, nice and dry, nothing on any walls, strictly all at bottom on the larger bedroom slide. The sweap seals (sorry, not sure what there called) on left and right of slide, barely touch either side, as I checked to see if slide was centred. Checked all around gutter, too if awning, and bulb seal on top looked like good fit when out or in, however I will take your advice and see with a level if it’s leaning in or out. I’ll check window drain as well tomorrow along with other suggestions you made, and see what I discover.

I read on another forum on different site that there were supposed to be drain pans that catch any water coming in, and drain it back out, but no pictures showing the detail so was not sure what I was looking for.

Are you aware if the bottom is just plywood, or are there metal bars where rollers run? It does not look like there’s anything but plywood. What holds the plywood up on the outside edge of slide, as I noticed that flange is dropping 1/4” in the centre, but I guess that could be from the plywood swelling. Would it help to add a piece on plywood full dimension under washer and dryer, until I can get to fixing the problem properly, or think that’s adding more weight?

I am agreeing with you, it looks like it could be the slide is leaning inward, and the seals on the sides of slides hardly touch, certainly not helping if slide is leaning inward. When slide is in all seals seem to be tight but I will check again tomorrow

Once again thanks for your advice

And sorry, yes 2013 36 rl and that is correct floor plan

And sorry, yes 2013 36 rl and that is correct floor plan

I want to also welcome you to the forum. I am currently at the Redwood Owner Rally in Indiana and learned yesterday about your very issue, so this may help.

Your first picture shows cracked caulk at the outside corner trim piece. I learned from the Redwood techs that one of the most important seals to check, recheck and recaulk is the horizontal seal on the bottom trim of your slides. Water can seep in from rain and washing and there is no place to go except to the floor of your slide - it can’t drip out. That trim flexes every time you close the slides so it is a high wear point and more than just cosmetic trim.

The techs noticed ours was showing some wear and recaulked our seals. But you can bet I will be keeping a closer eye on them. And yes, I think it’s just plywood. Not sure what thickness.

The bad thing about slide seals is that when the manufacturer installed them, they are in a "H" pattern or an "I" Beam pattern. The point is that when installed, one side of the H fits the frame of the opening. The other half of the H seal acts as the wipers for the slides. Then, they install the bubble seal on the inside and outside and caulk them in. Conceptually, this is a great way to protect the wall and get a double seal on the slide. In practicality, when it comes time to change them, you have to basically remove the slide.

Ideally, the slide should be centered in the opening with the slide tilting outward to drain any water that gets in. Ideally again, that probably won't happen if the slides are set correctly from the factory...So much for QC...Our slides were off when we picked up our unit. After a few hours, I was able to get them adjusted properly. One has to be very careful and take small adjustments at a time. If not done slowly, wall damage can occur. The fact that your slide cracked and your slide seals barely touched tells me that you were already way out of alignment. I've now also seen that when the openings are cut, they may not be exactly accurate. I've seen another RV wherein the top never touched the slide. Guess what happened to that rig? I've also seen them so tight at the top that they damaged the slider. PDI's (Pre-Delivery Inspections) are significantly important prior to driving off the lot. Many are caught in the trap by unscrupulous dealers and manufacturers who have no regulation. The consumers have got to take steps to protect themselves since there are no consumer groups who advocate on our behalf. Instead, there are plenty of groups who protect the manufactures with deep pockets.

I can see the water getting in around the window if the Butyl Tape is not properly installed. They don't typically caulk across the top and sides of the window which once again seems to be a quality issue and another source for leaking. Again, check the weep holes on each window to make sure pests have not plugged the holes.

For what it is worth, it sounds like you are at a location where you an at least work on it yourself. That's a pretty big task if you have not got the right equipment to get the slide out or enough help to get it accomplished.

The bottom (from what I can tell) is 2 pieces of 5/8" plywood. Hence, if water gets between the layers, you're pretty much done. they should be glued together. The wall frames sit down on top of that plywood and screwed down. A real chore to take off. You may have to pull the interior wall down (glued on) to re-attach the bottom.

A couple of interesting sources you may want to review:

www.Dicor.com/slideoutflooring

This is an alternative waterproof flooring solution. Stronger, lighter and waterproof.

Here is a video link to an individual who performed a partial repair. Perhaps this will give you an idea of what to be expecting.

https://bkamericanodyssey.com/2017/08/25/bedroom-slide-floor-repair/

To have the floors repaired by a dealer, expect 3-4 months out-of-service and for one slide that size, it will likely be $4-5k.

🙁

Thanks for the welcome, and the advice, certainly didn’t notice if there was any type of gap or caulking issue before, however I was not looking either

Thanks

And just to clarify my comment - I’m talking about the cosmetic fiberglass trim piece on the lower edge of the slide, not the rubber seals. That was the big reveal for me. I’ve always watched the rubber but now paying attention to the small bead of caulk between the lower trim and outside slide wall.

If you haven't already, climb on top and have a look at the top bubble seal. See if the caulk has dried out and cracked.

If you get to a point where you need to "re-caulk" the entire RV (and that will happen about every 5 years), then obtain the non-marking tools. The job is long and hard. Getting the old caulk off is a chore. Then, do not go back with silicon unless you plan to sell the rig. It's even more labor intensive to remove.

Here are some examples of the tools I have:

Here is a picture of that slide seal:

This is the main floor. The slide will be different:

Pay particular attention to this area seal as well. Located right at the bottom of the side wall.

And just to clarify my comment - I’m talking about the cosmetic fiberglass trim piece on the lower edge of the slide, not the rubber seals. That was the big reveal for me. I’ve always watched the rubber but now paying attention to the small bead of caulk between the lower trim and outside slide wall.

Thanks Paul for jumping in. Is this the area you are addressing? (The entire joint obviously. Not just the corner).

Paul, since you are there with the techs, maybe they would be willing to inject a possible cause and solution based on the photos?

Wow
Thanks guys, some serious information coming my way, much appreciated! The partial fix would be something I would be quite comfortable doing, but I think it will be a full bottom replacement, so if I could get it off the rollers and able to remove the full bottom without removing the slide, I would be ok with that, however removing the slide would put me past my comfort zone. If I could prop the slide up with 2X 4’s or equal support, I would think I could get this removed, and along with other link, cover with flexible membrane when complete

Thanks so much for the helpful information guys

Excellent point

I had water intrusion into my motorhome slide room due to the silicon caulk failing on the exterior slide room trim just like the picture you posted. With the paint and the color of the caulk its sometimes hard to tell if the bead is still intact but if it fails water will run down the exterior of the slide room and go straight through that joint instead of falling over the edge. That water goes straight to the slide room floor and it typically doesn't dry and rot sets in. The wet wood also swells and makes the problem even worse. I can't tell you how important it is to watch these caulk joints and recaulk if there is any sign of deterioration.