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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| RE: Front Slideout Room 12 v Wiring Harness Flex Guard Repair | 8 Relevance | 5 years ago | Rob_Fla | Slideouts, Toppers and Awnings | |
| Both of my Flex guards under our Front Living slides were broken and the wiring was dragging on the floor when opening and closing the slide. I removed the front panels on our slides with our much problem. The slide floor front panels on our Redwood are carpeted separately from the slide floors, just have to poke around and and find the fastener heads that hold the front panel on, remove the fasteners and remove the front panel. Since both were broken due to being installed incorrectly at the factory during our Redwood build (they were mounted too far forward and getting crushed by the front nose frame beam) I moved them back to the area behind the front nose beam, cut them even lengths, then installed a 3 inch hardware store hinge on them. They have been working perfect for 6 years now. | |||||
| Stupid move on my part | 8 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Things in general | |
| Ok, I will confess my Boo-Boo. I was putting things in the tool box compartment on the drivers side under the bedroom slide out. Just put the door on my head since I wasn't going to be on there long. My wife was putting in all slides so we could take off. The door being on my head was high enough that the slide caught it and started to draw it in under the slide. I let my wife know quite loudly to STOP THE SLIDE OUT. Damage to hinge and door but I could do the repairs myself. LESSON LEARNED: USE THE ATTACHED hingeD LATCH INSTEAD OF MY HEAD TO HOLD THE DOOR OPEN!! Had I used the latch, the slide would have cleared the door. As I said lesson learned | |||||
| Damaged Rear Ladder, need replacement | 8 Relevance | 8 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| 11/10/17: I called Tiara this morning to see if I could get the information on my particular ladder. Who knows...I might need one in the near future myself...There is a small sticker under one of the steps that will tell you the part number (I think that is what it is), the date of manufacturing, and the weight rating. Mine was about the 3rd step up. I had to bend over to see it. With that in mind, you and I are going to have to wait for a while if we want a replacement. The one piece black ladder is apparently manufactured by Christianson Industries. This was received by alternate resources. Tiara won't give you ANY information about who made the ladder or why they can't get access to any. They will tell you that ladders are ONLY being made available to production and warranty claims at this time. Check back next year. But after during some research, I think I now see why: It seems that Christianson Industries may only be a small company trying to dig out of a deep well. Per MANTA ( Christianson Industries Inc 27328 May St Edwardsburg, MI 49112 Phone: (269) 663-8502 Web: Christianson.com Christianson Industries Inc is a privately held company in Edwardsburg, MI and is a Single Location business. Categorized under Aluminum Sheet, Plate, and Foil. Our records show it was established in 1981 and incorporated in MI. Current estimates show this company has an annual revenue of 8,856,492 and employs a staff of approximately 20. So, after a web search, there were only 3 other Public manufacturers (not using private or hidden names like Christianson) that I could find: SURCO STROMBERG-CARLSON TOP-LINE I did find one other but at $380, I didn't think that would interest you. The problem is that the public manufacturers seem to be making "Universal" style ladders (with 1 exception at Top-Line). In other words, they have a hinged ladder. I can't use that particular kind of ladder due to the location of the window and where the hinge would bend. At least, I don't want that to be a risk factor. You might be able to make it work, but I don't want to HAVE to "work" with it. I am assuming you would not either. In any case, here are the alternates that are hinged (even though they say Universal): SURCO INC: STROMBERG-CARLSON: Black (LA-401 BA) - $109.95 Direct from Factory Spec Sheet: 2323 Traversefield Drive, PO Box 266, Traverse City, MI 49685 Phone 231-947-8600 Fax 231-947-7006 Email: info@strombergcarlson.com Ordering Page: PPL (Texas) has this one advertised. I'd at least call for price comparison if you go this route. Make sure you have the correct top mount. There are apparently a couple of varieties out there. TOP-LINE (502L is a straight rack but it may not reach in far enough): Best of luck! | |||||
| Electric Breaks | 8 Relevance | 9 years ago | Jim | Chassis, Frame, Autolevel and Running Gear | |
| Gipc I have had mine apart to fix the washer drain. There is more room for storage under there if you remove the 1/4" ply wood and installed 1/2" on a hinge and struts. I have not done this yet as it will just add more weight to that side and am already 750 lbs heavier than the door side | |||||
| Entry door makes annoying creaking sounds | 8 Relevance | 9 years ago | Jim | General Exterior | |
| If you have lubricated with any quality lube, it sounds like your door frame or door or both are not properly aligned causing your hinges to be in a bind. It could be that a good wind gust snapped the door open on the previous owner? About the best you can do is to use a penetrant spray a few times. You could consider grinding off the welds and re-tacking the existing hinges but that's going to be a lot of work. I don't remember if you can pull the hinge pins or not. I'm not at the RV at the moment. If you can, then you might pull the pins, clean them with a steel wool, and then lube the hinges before re-installing the pins. If that absolutely will not resolve the issue, you may want to replace the door and or frame. RV's are just a lot of work... | |||||
| Icemaker Line - Again | 8 Relevance | 9 years ago | Jim | Appliances | |
| Sorry for bringing up the subject again but thought this might be of help to someone - 38RL. Had another water leak in the line, this time behind the Whirlpool refrigerator. Decided to replace the entire line. For anyone thinking about the same thing, here are the simple steps I did: 1. It takes about 30 feet of line to run from the back of the fridge, through the floor, along the slide, through the underbelly, and up to the island connection. I used a 10 ft and 20 ft braided line from Lowe's. 2. With a helper, carefully slide the refrigerator forward about 12 inches, protecting the bottom slide trim where the refrigerator will rest. Then take the left refrigerator door off including disconnecting the water and electrical connection in the top hinge. Water disconnects by pushing on the colored washer while pulling the door-side water line out of the quick-connection. Take the freezer door off with four screws that attach to the bracket. 3. Carefully slide the refrigerator farther toward the island where it can tilt. The existing water line on the fridge has about 4 ft coming out of the fridge where I could disconnect the RV water line without taking the fridge all the way out and having to get behind the fridge. 4. I drilled a new hole from the bottom of the slide through the floor as close as I could reasonably get to the cabinet wall and slide wall. The new line is larger and wouldn't fit through the old holes. 5. Fed the line through the bottom and attached to the fridge line. 6. Covered the outside line with split foam pipe insulation and thread it through the underbelly and up to the sink. Connected at the sink. Turned on the water at the sink and checked for leaks. Put everything back together. 7. Sealed up the old and new holes in the bottom of the slide with silicone. Now maybe my icemaker line problems are over! | |||||
| Vertical Lift Hinges for Upper Cabinets | 8 Relevance | 9 years ago | Jim | General Interior | |
| Our RV dealer acquired these hinges made by GRASS GmbH Movement Systems for us so they could install them in the cabinets over the microwave and refrigerator, but they say they can't because the cabinets do not have a wall for them to be mounted to. They say there is nothing for the hinge to grab onto. Has anybody installed these hinges that could offer some advice? | |||||
| Heavy Hauler | 8 Relevance | 9 years ago | Jim | Towing | |
| The back 5' of the bed is on a double hinge and lowers hydraulically to allow the ramps to be put on and drive the Jeep on and off. | |||||
| RE: Power Awning Rail | 7 Relevance | 4 years ago | Cam62 | Slideouts, Toppers and Awnings | |
| @webberwj Thanks for the reply. Yes, three switches in "basement" area. One does the light in Basement above the command centre, one controls the LED for awning and the other must be for the rail BUT when I tried it my fan didn't seem to work. I need to use my VOM to determine if there is 12VDC on the rail and maybe fan is defective.....Thanks again for the response. Redwood should have the switches labelled. | |||||
| FWD Awning Won't Retract | 7 Relevance | 4 years ago | SteveB | Slideouts, Toppers and Awnings | |
| 2018 3401RL Redwood. The fwd awning extends but won't retract using either the In-Command control panel in the coach or the iPhone app. Went to the Basement at the main control panel with a manual selector switch set to fwd awning and the awning did retract and the other control options also functioned. BUT now what ever switches the polarity to retract the awning has failed cant trigger the awning to extend at all. When I cycle the In-Command control panel or the manual override (switch in the Basement) to extend or retract I hear distinctly a clicking so ... | |||||
| Need to Run Wires | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Anonymous | Utilities: Plumbing, Electrical and Propane | |
| How far to the middle? You can run up to the ceiling of the Basement (take down the ceiling) and across to the utility area behind the Basement wall which puts you under your stairs and it is all wide open under there to fish up walls, etc. If you need to go further than that, you might as well go right down the street side frame by the batteries where the rest of the wiring harness goes and fish it down the frame above the belly material until you get where you need to go. Typically from there it is at least easy to get to the island. Anywhere else is ... | |||||
| cable hook ups ?? | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Utilities: Plumbing, Electrical and Propane | |
| OK, anyone here with a 2019 of newer have an issue with the cable hookup in the wet bay? I just started tracing the wires to label all jacks and so far I have the living room and Basement satellites traced and labeled. I placed the tracer on the cable input and didn't get anything back at the living room TV or the Basement?? Now, it is late and I did not look into it yet, perhaps I am just missing something.. The satellite jacks on BOTH of those plates are fine... My next move is to check the bedroom TV.... If thats good, I would think I have a splitter ... | |||||
| Down to the wire purchasing 2015 RW Sequoia 38HRL (41') | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Forum Help & FAQ | |
| One thing I forgot to point out our RV has a slide in slide in the master bedroom which adds weight we also have a washer and a dryer the ads about 300 pounds in the front Basement has about 95% of the year that you would be traveling with four people and maintenance supplies so I could lighten up the Basement | |||||
| possible converter issue. | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Utilities: Plumbing, Electrical and Propane | |
| So its 2 am and I smell a different odor in the rv. I check outside and nothing I check in the Basement nothing so I open the circuit breaker panel and feel around and notice the that the bottom breaker is warm. It is labeled conv. I happen to have my digital thermometer and it registers 95 degrees. Its a 20 amp breaker so I turned it off. The bottom of the breaker panel has two cooling fans that I have never turned on. Can someone feel their CB panel below the bottom breaker and let me know if its warm to the touch or not. I will tear apart the Basement t ... | |||||
| Thermostat Heat tip | 7 Relevance | 7 years ago | Jim | Utilities: Heating and Ventilation | |
| ... will be in a cold climate again this year in Northern Arizona but at least not as bad as last. In any case, last year it was driving me nuts ~ when the Electric heat was on with the heat pumps using the overhead ductwork, the displayed temp on the thermostat was always pretty accurate to with a degree of what the actual ambient temp in the room was. if, however, we switched to gas for the furnace, after an hour or so the display on the thermostat would show a few degrees warmer than the room actually was. Drove me crazy setting and resetting thermostat ... | |||||
